FrenchDuck’s databank

The Corbières region is remembered for the Crusades against the Cathar heretics. The ruins of castles which rose to dizzying heights can still be seen on the crests of this mountainous region - Aguilar, Queribus, Peyrepertuse etc. Lagrasse and Fontfroide abbeys attest to the period when the monks first cleared the land to plant vines.
Corbières wines have traditionally been very “rustic”, but in recent years the wines from the defined “Terroirs”, such as the Montagne d’Alaric and Durban are elegant and smooth, retaining good spicy fruit from the Syrah and Grenache. Corbières lies to the south of the Minervois and the Toulouse to Narbonne autoroute.

Castelmaure is a very small, and quite isolated village high in the Corbiéres hills close to the border with Roussillon and Fitou. It is not easy to find - several kilometres up a winding side road, which must be a challenge for the lorry drivers. The village (Embres et Castelmaure) is small and feels a little as though it is in a time warp - but carefully maintained and friendly.

The landscape is rugged and dramatic, with few other crops able to survive on the rocky terrain. But this ruggedness produces wines of great concentration, full of mineral extracts, but it demands great skill to produce wines which balance the sheer power of the grape with roundness and finesse. In general terms we avoid co-operatives, but this “cave” has developed and maintains a reputation for quality and distinctiveness which few individual growers can aspire to. This is achieved by having a good winemaker, who insists on the highest quality of grapes. and strict quality control in the wine cellar - despite its age!

Le Corbières AC, Cave de Castelmaure - Elegant, spicy, full-bodied and smooth southern red - a very successful blend of rustic strength and real finesse - made from Carignan (50%), Grenache (30%), Syrah(15%), Cinsault(5%)
Corbières AC Grande Cuvée SCV Castelmaure- Wonderfully rich, oak-aged red with huge fruit and great complexity - really big in the mouth with smooth tannins, ripe fruits, toasty and spicy - needs rich food such as Cassoulet - Grenache(45%), Syrah(45%), Carignan(10%)
Corbières AC Le Blanc - SCV Castelmaure- Remarkably fresh dry white with lots of crisp apple and citrus fruit - Grenache Blanc(90%), Maccabeu(10%)

Address: Castelmaure CSV, Embres et Castelmaure, 11000 (Aude) - see map

UPDATE - Oddbins now stocks a cuvée La Chapelle, Corbières AC from Castelmaure:-
“Corbières accounts for a large portion of the western Languedoc, and with its chaotic mountainous terrain, produces some very good value wines that seem to ooze fruit and spice. This bottle from the quality co-op based in the village of Embres-et-Castelmaure, is Carignan-dominated and ready to drink now.

Tasting Notes : A dark and fruity nose of blackcurrant precedes a palate of spicy bramble, plum and cassis flavours, all wrapped up in a soft, silky mouth feel.
Producer : Cave de Embres-et-Castelmaure
Method of Production : The grapes were sourced from 30 to 60 year old vines, with each of the varieties vinified separately. The Syrah was destemmed, crushed and fermented, whilst the rest was kept as whole berries and carbonically macerated. Fermentation occurred in concrete vats for around five days (at up to 30°C), after which the wines were pressed from the skins, blended together and returned to vats to marry and mature for six months. The wine was fined with egg white, filtered then bottled.”
£5.99 or £4.79 if you buy 6 or more (product code: 69596)

The French wine laws are idisyncratic and a little obscure - infuriating too, as with the exception of Alsace, the grape variety cannot be mentioned on the label of AC (Appellation Controllée) wines. So whilst South American Malbec is easily recognised on the supermarket shelf, the wines of Cahors, made from the same grape, remains a mystery to most consumers. Not only that but the scope for confusion in a country with 450 AOCs, and 140 vins de pays is substantial. Bordeaux alone has over 50 separate appellation names which can be on the bottle!

The proclaimed aim of the French wine appellations is to safeguard both the geographic origins of specific wines, and to control their “typicity” but restricting the grape varieties which may be used for a particular wine, and sometimes even requiring a minimum or maximum percentage of specified grape varietals. It is also claimed that this provides a quality guarantee, but that is questionable. However, you can be confident that, for example, a Cahors AC wine will have been produced in a specified area around the town of Cahors, and that it will contain at least 70% Malbec (locally known as Cot or Auxerrois), the other permitted grapes being Tannat, Merlot and Jurancon Noir. There will also be some restrictions on yield (hectolitres per hectare), maturity (sugar) levels, and approved methods of pruning etc. That said, there is a wide variation in quality in this and most other appellations, but there will be some limited consistency in style, due to the grape varieties and climatic conditions. In many ways the AC system is probably designed more to protect the authenticity and provenance of the wine, than to serve the needs of the consumer. (AC status started originally to prevent producers or merchants calling their wine “Nuits St Georges”, or “Champagne” or “Chateauneuf-du-Pape” when there was no connection whatever with those places.)

There are various levels of presumed quality:-

Vin de Table - few restrictions - can be blended from different regions, even different countries within the EU - usually basic wine.

Vin de Pays - probably the most widely seen label - especially from the Languedoc (Vin de Pays d’Oc) - restricted to specified, but often large geographical areas (e.g.Loire Valley) with few restrictions on grape varieties, but some control on yield and sugar levels. As such it includes many reasonable wines - and some gems because growers have used the relative freedom to produce wines which do not conform to the traditional style.

VDQS - Vins Délimité de Qualité Superieure - an Appellation Controllée but with wider limits on grape selection and viticulture than AC - generally used as a transitional stage between Vin de Pays and full AC - allowing producers to improve their techniques and to converge their approach.

Appellation d’Origine Controllée (AC or AoC) the strict control of many aspects of the wine production process, sometimes involving a “tasting” panel - but as this is administered locally it is unlikely to apply a very high threshold.

In Bordeaux and Burgundy there are further classifications - generally the more specific the AC name, the more limited are the producer’s options.

A cynic would suggest that the system relies more on political influence than on quality or character distinctiveness. I suspect few experts could consistently differentiate between the 14 appellations in Beaujolais, where every wine is made solely from the Gamay grape - and yet it was only a few years ago that the 14th was added - Regnié.

For the consumer the AC system does offer a limited indication of style and quality, but increasingly it is worth finding individual producers who make consistently good and interesting wines, regardless of the AC level. There are undoubtedly some fabulous Vins de Pays which outshine more prestigious AC wines, and often at a lower price.

However, the French system of wine control is excessively bureaucratic and slow to adapt. It would help consumers and producers immeasurably if an indication of grape variety could be included on the label, rather than arrogantly assuming that everyone knows that Vouvray is made from Chenin Blanc, or Madiran is mainly Tannat! There are suggestions of changes in Bordeaux, forced on it by poor sales (and often disappointing quality), but elsewhere the old regime prevails!

Whilst there are still some complacent French wine makers around who rely on the name of the wine to sell it, there are many committed and exciting winemakers throughout France making tremendously good wines - see Andrew Jefford’s recent book “The New France” for confirmation and masses of good writing about the new wine landscape of France. Go back

New Appellations

Côtes de Bordeaux AC (see above)

Beaumes de Venise AC - Reds in the Southern Rhone

Saint Sardos VDQS - was a Vin de Pays in Midi-Pyrenees south of Montauban and Fronton.

Vins De Pays d’Atlantique is expected to include all grape varieties from the Charente, Dordogne, Lot et Garonne and Gironde – and potentially the Pays Basque (from 2006)

Fronton AC is the new name for what was known as the “Côtes du Frontonnais” in SW France, near Montauban.

Download a pocket guide to French wines here

In this mosaic of very different terroirs, the Gaillac vineyard is situated 50 km east of Toulouse, in the direction of Albi, in the Tarn departement. The vineyard stretches over both sides of the Tarn and to the north up to the medieval town of Cordes. An ancient vineyard it hosts some very individual grape varieties such as Mauzac, Braucol and l’En de Lel. Whilst many acceptable wines are produced here, we recommend a winemaker who concentrates on combining the traditional grape varieties with modern techniques, resulting in wines which encompass the specific characteristics of Gaillac and remain very drinkable.

Domaine de Labarthe is a family run estate owned by the family of Jean Albert. Jean Albert has a very high reputation within Gaillac, as he aspires to produce wines which are very faithful to the local and distinctive character of Gaillac, but employs modern techniques to produce wines which are clean, fresh and full of style.
Gaillac can be a difficult appellation to recognise, as many growers tend to minmise the use of traditional (and more difficult) grape varieties and maximise the use of better known varietals such as Gamay, Syrah and Cabernet. They produce perfectly good, but rather anonymous wines - i.e. they could come from anywhere. The problem is that with the local grape varieties (Mauzac, Len de L’El, Braucol, Duras) it can be much harder to produce really good rather than “rustic” wines. However, this is one domaine where it works - welll-made wines of great character and distinctiveness.
Increasingly his son now undertakes much of the day-to-day work in the vineyard and cellar, and this combination of youth and experience bodes well for continued development of the domaine.
There are several styles of wine from Domaine de Labarthe:-
Gaillac AC Rouge Tradition - A big soft red with tons of fruit from Braucol and Duras grapes supported by a small proportion of Cabernets and Merlot. Full-bodied, elegant and smooth - with aromas of blackcurrant and raspberry
Gaillac AC Rouge Cuvée Guillaume - Sumptuous oaked red from 80% Braucol grapes (also known as Fer Servadou) - tons of vanilla and soft red fruits (cherries)
Gaillac AC Blanc Sec - A delightful dry white made from the tradirional grapes of this area (Mauzac (also known as Blanquette de Limoux) and Len de L’EL which impart fresh apple and pear tones. This is supplemented by the addition of a little Sauvignon Blanc to add body and finesse.
Sparking Gaillac Brut (Methode Gaillacoise) - A very distinctive Sparkling wine from the South West of France, made using only the Mauzac grape (also used in Limoux) - this is a fruity dry sparkler with good mousse and a slight tang of citrus - quite different!
(NB There is also a local speciality called Gaillac Perlé which is a slightly petillant dry white wine)
Gaillac AC Doux Les Grains d’Or - Stunning dessert white made from 100% Len de l’El grapes - late harvested and vinified in oak - golden, rich and well-balanced, it develops flavours of honey and quince in the mouth together with hints of praline and conserved fruits. Excellent served chilled as an aperitif or as a dessert (pudding) wine.
UK Stockists: ?
Address: Domaine de Labarthe, 81150 Castanet (Tarn) (see map)
Website: www.labarthe.com

For the South West the A20 autoroute (l’Occitaine) is now complete linking Paris and Toulouse via the A10 to Orleans, then the A71 to Vierzon onto the A20 for Toulouse via Limoges, Brive, Cahors and Montauban. This is a very enjoyable road cutting through some glorious scenery - and such a joy for those who used to struggle on the old N20. This provides much easier access to Limoges, the Upper Dordogne & Sarlat, and the Lot Valley, Montauban and Toulouse. Cahors is now less than 7hrs from Calais - although you will have to pay about €47 (£30) in tolls (2006 figures) for the journey from Calais to Toulouse. However, the stretch from Vierzon (18 Cher, Centre) and the A71 junction south to Brive-la-Gaillarde (19 Corrèze, Limousin) is toll free!

A relatively new merchant with an established online business and a shop in the heart of London’s West End. Their list covers a wide range of countries and has more than 50 French wines including classics from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne as well as some more adventurous selections including the wines and Armagnac from Domaine de Lauroux in Gascony. Their Vins de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne (red, white and rosé) are delightful, flavoursome wines on offer from £5.00 a bottle (even less if you buy by the case).

Planet of the Grapes
9 New Oxford Street
London
WC1A 1BA

T: 020 7405 4912
Web: www.planetofthegrapes.co.uk

Leon Stolarski Fine Wines is a specialist wine importer, with a growing list of hand-selected wines from some of the best small growers in Languedoc, Roussillon and southern Rhone. After more than a decade of travelling these regions, Leon was fully aware of the great potential and sheer diversity of the wines. He believes passionately that these regions now offer some of the most exciting (and fairly priced) wines in the world. Yet many of them have, until now, been unavailable in the U.K. There are no “agency” wines here, since they are all imported directly from the individual growers throughout the regions. The classic red table wines, from grape varieties such as Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Carignan are the real strength of the list, together with some exciting and unusual wines from many other varieties, both red and white. There are also some cracking sparkling and dessert wines, making for a truly eclectic and exciting selection. Many of these wines have already attracted great reviews, from some of the U.K’s foremost writers, including Jancis Robinson M.W and Tom Cannavan. And the selection continues to grow, with more wines and growers being added on a regular basis to a list that is definitely worth watching out for. CLICK HERE

Region: Rhône Valley
Appellation: Gigondas AC
Producer: Domaine la Fourmone
Grapes: Grenache

2 principal cuvées produced - Cuvée Traditionelle and the Cuvée Cigaloun both very rich and high in alcohol. Wonderfully spicy overtones, with the Cigaloun balancing the spice with really good fruit.

From selected plots, velvet colour, spicy nose,grilled aromas, palate delight.

… When it nears the lavender she stops singing.
“Canto ! Canto ! Cigaloun !” says the poet quietly at it becomes his friend…

As ALLEZ VINS! UK French wine merchants we imported the wines of Domaine la Fourmone and l’Oustau Fauquet for many years,
Madame Combe produces high quality intense wines using traditional techniques from the domaine nestling under the Dentelles mountains.Significantly the wines are not filtered, which enables them to retain all the structure and body of these concentrated, powerful and charming wines. Roger Combe, the patriarch of the domaine, is a real Provencal and a renowned poet in the region. You will find Provencal phrases on the labels. The name “Fourmone” is believed to come from the Latin “Fromentum” (wheat), widely grown in the wide expanses of the Rhône valley.
The domaine is situated just north of the village of Vacqueyras, north of Carpentras in the southern Rhône Valley , and in the lee of the Dentelles de Montmirail - a series of jagged edged hills - see map
You can be assured of a warm welcome to the winery (except in February when they are usually closed).

The southern Rhône is dominated by a wide flat valley floor, which is intensively planted with vines. However, the better wines come from the slopes and hills on the valley sides, where the soils, drainage and aspect produce wines with more character and maturity.

Gigondas (under the label “l’Oustau Fauquet” is a seriously rich heavy wine - “drink with spoon” being one of my tasting notes for a particularly extraordinary vintage. It is in many respects similar to the nearby Chateauneuf-du-Pape AC wines - more info

Vaqueyras is a tad lighter, and is best known for its velvety smoothness overlying a spicy character. ” - more detailed info

Region: Rhône Valley
Appellation: Vacqeyras AC
Producer: Domaine la Fourmone
Grapes: Grenache, Syrah
Several cuvées are produced - Tresor du Poete, Sélection Maître de Chais and Cuvée des Ceps d’or. There is also a White Vacqueyras - Cuvée Fleurantine!
Big powerful and velvety smooth spicy Rhône red - excellent (S.Rhône) Made from Grenache and Syrah grapes, manually picked. It is the smoothness of Vacqueyras which is its keynote - which derives from the Syrah grape. Vacqueyras was the second of the Côtes du Rhône villages to be upgraded to full appellation status (after Gigondas) - recognised for its big powerful character.

Guide Hachette des Vins de France 2002:
“Recommended 2** (remarkable wine) in the Guide Hachette des Vins 2002. “This is a very complete and fairly complex wine like most produced on this estate. Subtle hints of nuts, spices and garrigue (moorland) wild herbs, plus a tiny touch of mint, give an attractively original taste.The volme and strength of this wine are impressive. Full and rich this poetical treasure inspires lyrics and will be remembered. Delightfully refreshing, it should be sampled right now!!”

Website: http://www.domaine-la-fourmone.com

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Venue for the 2006 French Sailing Championships. In the département of the Var in the Region Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (PACA).
For more info see www.ot-hyeres.fr/uk/ and www.frenchduck.com

Vins de Pays Charentais, mainly white wines from grapes that also serve as the basis for Cognac. Ugni Blanc and Columbard are the traditional varieties but more Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc are evident, which add body and richness to what otherwise can be rather thin acidic wines (ideal for Cognac!).
The Vin de Pays Charentais accounts for 40% of the Vins de Pays wine production in the Charentes/Aquitaine area. Produced in the departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime, these wines contribute toward a diversification of use for the vineyards of the Cognac region. White wines are produced mainly from Ugni-Blanc which gives them acidity and freshness, and the Ugni-Blanc is blended with aromatic grape varieties such as Colombard, Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
For the reds and rosés Cabernet-Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Tannat (Cot or Auxerrois) are the principal grapes, which have the potential to produce rich, full-bodied wines, especially in good summers.

I have tasted some very good light, fresh whites from the region. I cannot say the same for the reds which I’ve always found a little disappointing. However if you want to try some of the best wines from the area, Swallow Fine Wines in Salisbury and online are offering a mixed case of wines from Domaine Gardrat.

See map of Pamproux where there is an annual musical grape harvest festival)

For more info on Vins de Pays Charentais see www.swfrance.com/vdpc/

Found as a single varietal in the famous whites of the Loire – Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé (plus Quincy , Reuilly and Menetou-Salon) the highly aromatic Sauvignon Blanc also forms part of the white blends of Bordeaux. The wines are noted for their piercing acidity and aromas of gooseberries and cut grass. The grape also used in the sweet wines of Bordeaux, often softened with the use of Semillon.

Zesty, fresh lemons and very dry,grassy finish.
Best with Seafood, creamy pasta dishes, goat’s cheese

Sauvignon Blanc - Found in Loire, Bordeaux , South West France