FrenchDuck’s databank
French wine

The problem (and delight) of South West France is that there are so many areas to explore, and often renting a gite can be so delightful that getting out and exploring might be limited to the nearest town and trips for French Bread, a bar and an ocassional restaurant.
However, an English couple (Jason and Michelle) have established a Motorhome (or motor caravan as I used to call them) Hire centre at St Avit (47 Lot-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) south of Duras

(see map)

Evolution will plan your itinerary for you or advise you on your existing route. If you’re a lover of fishing, walking, wine tasting etc.a personalised route planner to suit your needs can be arranged for the duration of your vacation. We will provide details of recommended camp sites.

You’ll never get lost…
We provide an on-board ready-to-use GPS navigation system. We’re on-call with a 24/7 helpline with English spoken… We can provide liaison with reputable local property agents for those seeking to purchase property in the area. Cycle and leisure equipment hire is also available. Evolution caters for all-year round rental, with winter skiing resorts only a leisurely 3 hour drive south, a little further will take you to the winter warmth of Spain.

So you can avoid the long road trip through France, fly into Bergerac or Bordeaux or take the train - they will meet you at the airport or station and you’re off free to explore this rich and varied area.And with French number plates you might even get a bit more respect on the road!

For more info see www.evolutionmotorhomes.com

The organic vineyard of Chateau Haut Garrigue in the village of Saussignac (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) near Bergerac has it all - a wonderful situation overlooking the Dordogne valley; a self-contained gite “The Grape Escape”, friendly English-speaking (well, Irish) hosts and a real opportunity to see and learn more about wine and wine-making (if that’s what you want!).

Allez Vins! used to import wines from this domaine when it was run by its previous owners, but now it is being run organically under the title “Wild Earth Vineyards” by the enthusiastic and innovative new owners, Sean and Caroline Feely.

The Grape Escape, our well-equipped 4-person gite (self-catering holiday house) is surrounded by organic vineyards and offers fabulous views across the Dordogne valley. It is semi-detached from the main farmhouse facing onto the courtyard on one side and onto the vines on the two sides built out over the vineyard.

As our guests, you are very welcome to spend time with us to learn about our wine and winemaking, taste our wines and perhaps even take part in vineyard or winery activity depending on the time of year and your energy!

No chance for me to taste their wine yet - they produce red, rosé and white Bergerac AC wines and semi-sweet and botytised dessert Saussignac AC wines. (If you want to try them they will be showing their wines at the Real Food Festival at Earls Court, London from 24-27 April 2008).

For more info on the gite, wines and other offerings contact Chateau Haut Garrigue

See map

Deep in the heart of Corbières country of the Aude département (11 Languedoc-Roussillon) is the impressive Chateau de Donos. This is close to rugged countryisde, away from the mediterranean beaches and the autoroutes. The wine is predominantly red, rich and full-bodied as you might expect from the landscape - and increasingly becoming one of the most characterful appellations of the region. My personal favourite, Castelmaure, is only a few kilometres away.

It is a superb region away from the summer crowds and with plenty to explore - wonderful landscapes, Cathar castles and great wines. And yet within easy reach of the Mediterranean coast if you want something different. Chateau de Donos produces wines (apparently not available in the UK), but also offers both B&B and self-catering accommodation. Their Corbières AC Tradition 2004 won a “coup de coeur” in the Guide Hachette des Vins 2008.

The Chambres d’Hote (B&B) accommodation is in the impressive main house (la Bastide) and comprises 3 rooms and 2 suites :

Facing south, in an environment where your tranquility will never be bothered, the rooms and Suites enjoy an exceptional setting with a view on the surounding landscape.

Following the restoration, the accommodation benefits from all modern conforts,including brand new and luxurious bathrooms.

The drawing room is very spacious and you can rest in a fresh place and watch T.V; In summer, Breakfasts are served outside in a country almost looking like the Florentine country with Cyprès trees, drystone wall and an old washer.

There are also 2 cottages to rent on the Estate which look totally charming.

For more info see www.chateaudonos.com

Aude Tourisme website
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A surprise to find Saffron being grown as far north as the southern Touraine, but the village of Preuilly-sur-Caise (37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) celebrates this pricey spice with a Fete du Safran (16 Feb 2008) - fortunately held indoors at this time of year - where you can purchase saffron, and taste and buy saffron-infused products and/or try some special saffron recipes.

“The origins of saffron growing in southern Touraine are still shrouded in mystery. Today there are various theories of how it came about, including the practice being brought over by Arab armies in the 8th century and an original initiative by the monks at the local abbey. In any event, over the centuries the harvest of the precious Crocus sativus stigmas has become a veritable tradition in this southern part of Touraine . Every year, the one-day celebration that is Preuilly-sur-Claise Saffron Fair serves as a reminder of the fact. From 10 a .m. to 6 p.m. you can see the stalls bright with the magnificent purple colour of dried saffron, talk to the local producers about the best way of using the spice, and - why not - treat yourself to a sample of pure flavour? Remember, you only need a few stigmas to flavour a fish dish for example.”

The village lies in an attractive valley in the south of Touraine in the centre of a triangle between Tours, Poitiers and Chateauroux. There’s an interesting web site set up by a couple of Australians living in France which is worth exploring - Days on the Claise!
For more info see www.tourism-touraine.com

Over in Dijon (Cote d’Or, Burgundy) France’s leading micro-distiller Gabriel Boudier makes a Saffron Gin from a rediscovered French colonial recipe of eight natural botanicals.

Gabriel Boudier is a leading micro-distiller in Dijon France with a reputation for fine spirits since 1874. Saffron Gin is a unique recipe discovered in the archives of France’s colonial past when England and France both claimed India as their jewel and gin rich in exotic botanicals was the fashion. This handcrafted, small batch pot distilled gin is made from the finest natural botanicals, in addition to the Saffron which gives a delicately spicy character, the recipe has Juniper, Coriander, Lemon, Orange Peel, Angelica Seeds, Iris and Fennel, creating one of the most complex and memorable gins distilled today. Enjoy Saffron Gin on the rocks or with Tonic.

This exotic tipple is available from Arthur Rackham Emporia in Guildford and online.

UPDATE - the following additional info from Susan Walter at Days on the Claise:

I thought you might like to know that the Foire au Safran is one of those relatively recently revived ‘traditions’. Saffron hasn’t been grown commercially in the area for hundreds of years, but the local comité des fêtes thought it would be a fun theme to hang an annual event on. There are a few saffron growers, who take it very seriously and are keen to keep the tradition alive as far as possible, but it is acknowledged that it will never be more than a hobby for anyone. Bulbs are available for sale from one of the growers in the summer for anyone who wants to try them, and all the stall holders at the foire are very creative about introducing safran into their products. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable day and everyone is very relaxed and friendly. One of the hotels does a special saffron themed meal in the evening.

The Spring Festival (Fete de Printemps) takes place in the medieval town of St Emilion (33 Gironde, Aquitaine), one of the best appellations for Bordeaux red wines. There is always a colourful parade with a band through the town, with plenty of opportunities to taste some of the wines at any of the wine shops scattered through the town.
For more info see www.frenchduck.com

Two of the lesser-known wine appellations of Southwest are Marcillac AOC and Entraygues-et-Fel VDQS are in Aveyron departement (12, Midi-Pyrenees) in the Upper Lot Valley. One way of getting to know the region (and its wines) is by renting one of three charming 200+ year-old restored cottages nestled on the hillsides near the Lot River. These rental cottages offer beautiful interiors, lovely views and relaxing ambiance.All of the “Sweet French Cottages” are located in the area that boasts 10 of “The Most Beautiful Villages in France,” more than any other region so you can just imagine how beautiful it is! Many historic sites, castles, forests, walking paths, hiking trails, wine tasting, restaurants, horseback riding, kayaking, canoeing and golf or just sit and enjoy the views! Gorgeous village of Entraygues-sur-Truyere offers full services and is only minutes away.

All cottages are newly renovated to a high standard by the owner-designer, and are fully outfitted for self catering. Each has beautiful, comfortable interiors with antiques and quality furnishings. Many original features including stone exteriors, slate roofs, wood beam ceilings, fireplaces, handmade terracotta tile floors or pine floors. Delightful river, castle and forest views.

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In the east of France and to the east of Burgundy adjacent to Switzerland, the Ain is probably a little overlooked by most visitors.

With Bourg-en-Bresse as its principal town it is a region of gentle hills and river valleys - which is one of the hidden parts of France.

The departement includes Bugey and the wines of Bugey. These are VDQS wines (Vins Délimité de Qualité Superieure) - a classification between full Appellation Controllee and VIns de Pays. As such there are restrictions on grape varieties used and planting and harvesting techniques - and the grapes must be grown in the designated region. White wines from Chardonnay, Roussette; Rosé wines from Gamay and Poulsard; Reds from Gamay, Pinot and Mondeuse; and sparkling wines from Chardonnay. Seldom seen in the UK.
For an opportunity to taste some of these wines there is an open tasting in Lyon from 25-26 January 2008 - click here for more details
For more on the wines of Bugey see www.vinsdubugey.net
One of the highlights of the year is the celebration of the famous yellow corn-fed chickens from Bourg-en-Bresse - the Glorieuses de Bresse held every December shortly before Christmas (for 2008 it runs from 16-21 December 2008 - in the form of a market and other festivities held in Bourg-en-Bresse, Louhans, Pont de Vaux and Montrevel-en-Bresse - see www.glorieusesdebresse.com

More info - see the Ain Tourism Office

For an English run B&B in the region with a knowledgeable host and guide see B&B Burgundy

Chinon is one of the better known Loire Wines, with an attractive riverside town and castle at its heart, and a reputation for some of the best Cabernet Franc reds.
A little to the east of the town in Cravant-les-Coteaux Christophe Baudy and Jean-Martin Dutour own and run an impressive set of vineyards producing some of the best wines of the appellation. They also have a couple of gites to rent on the vineyard and offer an impressive list of recommendations for restaurants, chambres d’hotes and places to visit locally, such as the Azay-le-Rideau. They also provide a downloadable guide to the Chinon wine route .

For more info on the accommodation see www.baudry-dutour.com

In the UK wines from the Domaine du Roncée are available from Handford Wines (London)

The Proclamation of the Harvest takes place in the medieval town of St Emilion (33 Gironde, Aquitaine), one of the best appellations for Bordeaux red wines. There is always a colourful parade with a band through the town, with plenty of opportunities to taste some of the wines at any of the wine shops scattered through the town.
For more info see www.frenchduck.com

The wine fairs of the Vignerons Independents (independent winemakers) for the first half of 2008 include Strasbourg (67 Bas Rhin,Alsace), Parc des Expositions Wacken from 15-18 February 2008.
For a small entry fee you get the chance to meet winemakers from all the wine regions of France, to taste some of their wines and buy at vineyard gate prices.
No co-operatives, negociants or multi-nationals

Eguisheim (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace) celebrates its 48th Winegrowers’ festival in August 2008. Set in the heart of the Alsace vineyards you’ll find opend doots to local wine cellars, plenty of opportunities to taste (including some of the Grand Cru wines), folk dancing and music
For more info see www.ot-eguisheim.fr

As well as the Alsace Wine Route which extends throughout Alsace by road, there is also a signposted vineyard path (“Sentier viticole”) which will

“lead you to discover the wine and the vineyard of Eguisheim, in detail and in an unusual way. With the help of explanatory panels distributed along the route, you will get to know the 7 Alsatian types of vines. Some others panels present the work of wine growers. You will discover two great wines, Eichberg and Pfersigberg, with their relative geology and sun aspect of the vineyard. You will also enjoy the landscape, as the view of Eguisheim, Trois-Château, and vineyards.”

Eguisheim is also recognised as one of France’s Villes et Villages Fleuris offering a warm welcome and a wealth of blooms.

Eguisheim is one of the villages on the Route du Vin running from Thann to Marlenheim. This medieval town was built in concentric circles round its fortified castle, where the only Pope from Alsace, Leo IX, is said to have been born. It has a unique combination of civil and military architecture from the 15th Century. There is a pleasant signposted walk round the ramparts, actually following the old sentry path round the battlements. Everywhere are half-timbered houses, with balconies weighed down with the red geraniums which have become part of the heritage of Alsace !

The Alsace region has managed to preserve its ancestral traditions with its medieval castles rising up above the plain, a wealth of Renaissance and Neo-Classical architecture, varied gastronomy and original folklore. It also has some of the most famous vineyards in France, including its Wine Route. One option as a base for exploring this glorious region is the Résidence Le clos d’ Eguisheim, which is located on the “Alsace Wine Route” and is a complex inspired by local architecture comprising apartments and a heated indoor swimming pool

At Saint Bauzille de Montmel (34 Herault, Languedoc) north east of Montpellier the Mas de Martin is a well-established vineyard (Coteaux du Languedoc AC) which also offers 2 Gites under the Gites de France scheme.
These are both well-appointed (one sleeps 4, the other 6) and well-situated to explore the vineyards, coast and the surrounding countryside, being within sight of the Pic St Loup, the iconic mountain crag which is at the centre of some of the best regarded vineyards of the Languedoc. The domaine also produces its own olive oils.
Contact:-
Gîtes de France Hérault Maison du Tourisme
34184 MONTEPELLIER CEDEX 8
Tél. : 04 67 67 71 62 ou
contact@gdf34.com
For more info on the wines of Domaine Mas de Martin see www.frenchduck.com
For more info see www.premiumwanadoo.com/masdemartin/

The weekend of 14-16 December 2007 there is the “Petit Marché du Gros Souper“, (Christmas market) in St Remy-de-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence) where you can find the traditional ingredients for the your festive celebrations.
active

At this time of the year, all of the shops are magnificently decorated, full of gifts and buzzing with activity.
Saint Remy de Provence is the home of a number of excellent santon makers, and first-rate producers of candied fruit, chocolates, biscuits, bread, cakes, honey, nougat and many other objects of delight, some of which are part of the symbolic Christmas thirteen desserts.

With strong links to Vicent Van Gogh and just 15 miles south of Avignon, St Remy is a lively and attractive Provencal town - close to the olive and grape vineyards of Les Baux de Provence and the Alpilles.
Recommended vineyard - Mas Sainte Berthe at Les Baux

Eurostar connections direct from London St Pancras International, Ebbsfleet. Ashford to Avignon:

For more info on the Christmas Market in St Remy-de-Provence CLICK HERE

There are numerous criteria for selecting the perfect holiday gite - for me it has to be a combination of tranquility, privacy, a decent view, comfortable accommodation, swimming pool; within walking distance of a bar, shop and preferably a restaurant; within striking distance of a town with a good selection of shops - and with vineyards nearby where I can purchase some good local wines.
The Mas de Couderc at Degagnac (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) fits all these criteria - about 10km south of Gourdon and 30km north of Cahors it is also close to the Dordogne for visits to Sarlat and the Valley of the Dordogne. Wine wise the vineyards of Cahors start a little to the south, and Bergerac is a bit further afield. Goose, Duck and walnuts are the local specialties.
The gite is available throughout the year, and because you book direct weekly rentals are good value for money. Monsieur and Mme Verot speak good English (she is English!)
For more info and pictures see www.frenchduck.co.uk/couderc

Contact the owners Serge and Yasmin Verot

In the heart of the Loire Valley there is an ideal solution for francophiles who are interested in wine. The Domaine de la Bellevue not only offers some stylish self-contained accommodation but also an opportunity to get really close to the process of transforming grapes into wine.

Surrounded by vineyards and sleepy hamlets our French/Anglo home is a delightful, peaceful retreat. Ideally located for discovering the Loire Valley and beyond, La Bellevue is conveniently close to Saumur, Chinon, Montreuil-Bellay, Fontevraud l’Abbaye and Angers.

In the company of a knowledgeable vigneron, wine-maker, discover the world of wine and enhance your understanding and recognition of an ‘inferior’/’superior’ wine. Spend time discovering how wine is produced at a stunning Domaine in the heart of the val de loire. Or perhaps try your hand at grape-picking during harvest.

With the added benefits that come with an English hostess and a French vigneron you can just enjoy the scenery and try the wines - or take a private wine tour with a winemaker - or have your own wine-tasting evening with expert advice and local knowledge - or if you are feeling really energetic (and no back problems) then get involved with the grape picking at harvest time.

Situated just south of Saumur, famous for its Sparkling Chenin Blanc, dry still white and the red Saumur-Champigny AC this is an area rich in chateaux, history and wine. The Domaine’s association with Domaine de la Paleine, a few kilometres away at Le Puy Notre Dame (49 Maine-et-Loire, Pays de Loire) gives you privileged access to a vineyard which has won recognition in the respected Guide Hachette des Vins de France, winning a Coup de Coeur in the 2008 edition for the red Saumur “Moulin des Quints” 2005 made from Cabernet Franc. They also produce Saumur Brut (sparkling), Saumur Blanc (dry white), Coteaux de Saumur (a dessert wine based on Chenin Blanc) and two rosés - Cabernet de Saumur (dry) and a Cabernet d’Anjou (medium dry) - see the website at www.domaine-paleine.com (there is more info on the French language version)

For more information on the Chambre d’Hote at Domaine de la Bellevue - see www.domainedelabellevue.com

Our Free Prize Draw this year is for a copy of Vicki Archer’s My French Life which is a wonderfully evocative celebration of France, especially Provence and Paris. Superbly illustrated it will delight anyone with a passion for France and things French.

To enter (closing date 14 December 2007) go to www.frenchduck.co.uk

Etaples (62 Pas de Calais, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) celebrates its 15th Herring Fesitval (Fete du Hareng Roi) on the weekend of 10-11 November 2007.
Etaples is an important centre for commercial (and amateur) fishing on the English Channel (or French Manche) at the mouth of the River Canche, close to classy Le Touquet. This version offers grilled, smoked and marinated herrings plus stories of the sea! (see www.etaples-tourisme.com)

Alternatively, the following weekend (17-18 November 2007) Boulogne-sur-Mer holds its Herring Festival with the addition of sea-shanties and the arrival of the Beaujolais Nouveau, which happens to be quite a good food and wine combination! (see www.tourisme-boulognesurmer.com)

Arthur Rackham’s in Guildford, Surrey have a regular BIG tasting and the next will be held on Saturday 27 October 2007 with the theme “wines and spirits of France.”

An impressive selection is offered for tasting including some Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy plus Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cahors, Alsace, Languedoc, Loire, Rhone and Armagnac:-

Lallier Brut Rose Premier Cru NV
Chateau La Rame Bordeaux Blanc 2006
Domaine du Bouchot Pouilly Fume 2005 (Loire)
Aegerter Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 abd Beaune Premier Cru Les Reversees Blanc 2005
Domaine d. l. Presidente Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2006
Domaine Belles Pierres Clauzes de Jo Blanc 2005 (Languedoc)
Zusslin Riesling Clos du Liebenberg 2002 (Alsace)
Aegerter Bourgogne Rouge 2005 and Gevrey Chambertin 2005
Chateau La Rame, Bordeaux 2005
Chateau Bujan, Cote du Bourg 2005
Chateau Caroline, Moulis-en-Medoc 2000
Chateau Mongravey, Mongravey 2005 (Margaux)
Domaine Belles Pierre Clauzes de Jo Rouge 2005 (Languedoc)
Chateau Haute-Serres, Cahors 2003 (Southwest France)
Domaine de la Presidente Cairenne Cote du Rhone 2005

Chateau La Rame Traditionnel St-Croix-du-Mont 2004

Comte du Lauvia VSOP Armagnac

There is a charge of £5.00 but that seems well worthwhile for the opportunity to taste your way through some of these wines,
SeeArthur Rackham.

North of Macon at Igé (71 Saone-et-Loire, Burgundy) you could indulge in a wine and gastronomic stay at this aptly named Chambre d’Hote (B&B) In addition to 5 very spacious comfortable bedrooms in this former winemaker’s house, they offer Table d’Hote suppers and tutored food and wine tastings and tours in the heart of Burgundy - with an impressive cellar and wine museum.
The area is high on the hills north of the Beaujolais region, close to Pouilly-Fuissé AC and is particularly good for its Chardonnay-based white wines. We used to import the white Macon-Berzé AC from Chateau de Berzé through our friends at Paul Beaudet - still available from Paul Beaudet in Pontanevaux in France.
Also in the vicinity is the Abbey of Cluny and a medieval town with many houses dating back to the 12th and 14th centuries. The magnificent landscapes of Solutré, Mont Saint Romain and the surrounding Charolais region are all within easy reach.

For more info see http://cote-vigne.suivezlagrappe.com

The third Thursday in November is the release date for the new vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau, nowadays the first date on which it can be sold. In earlier years the wine was not allowed to leave the region before Wednesday midnight which is where the tradition of the Beaujolais Nouveau run was born. But back in the 70s and 80s this was a major wine event in the UK - but no more, as we have so much more choice, and Beaujolais Nouveau seldom represents great value for money - it is a bit of a novelty, and in good years it can be wonderful - really juicy jammy easy-drinking wines. However in not so good years it can be thin and acidic.

Nick Dobson knows the region and its wines well and always selects good Beaujolais and Beaujolais Nouveau:-

2007 has again been a very mixed year climatically; a mild winter allowed very early flowering of the vines in mid May, and the hope and expectation of another hot year in the same style as 2003, with an August harvest. In the end however, the summer was cooler than expected, and the harvest took place just slightly ahead of normal in early September. Warm dry weather round the harvest was beneficial for grape maturity and fruit quality. The general consensus from growers I have spoken with is that this years’s Nouveaux wines will be extremely fruity in style; the verdict on the main crop of 2007 Cru Beaujolais wines will have to wait a while, but the vintage is generally thought as being of good or slightly above-average quality.

However, you do need to pre-order (by 28 October) if you are interested - see Nick Dobson Fine Wines

Recommended reading: I’ll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World’s Most Popular Wine