FrenchDuck’s databank
Loire Wines

A surprise to find Saffron being grown as far north as the southern Touraine, but the village of Preuilly-sur-Caise (37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) celebrates this pricey spice with a Fete du Safran (16 Feb 2008) - fortunately held indoors at this time of year - where you can purchase saffron, and taste and buy saffron-infused products and/or try some special saffron recipes.

“The origins of saffron growing in southern Touraine are still shrouded in mystery. Today there are various theories of how it came about, including the practice being brought over by Arab armies in the 8th century and an original initiative by the monks at the local abbey. In any event, over the centuries the harvest of the precious Crocus sativus stigmas has become a veritable tradition in this southern part of Touraine . Every year, the one-day celebration that is Preuilly-sur-Claise Saffron Fair serves as a reminder of the fact. From 10 a .m. to 6 p.m. you can see the stalls bright with the magnificent purple colour of dried saffron, talk to the local producers about the best way of using the spice, and - why not - treat yourself to a sample of pure flavour? Remember, you only need a few stigmas to flavour a fish dish for example.”

The village lies in an attractive valley in the south of Touraine in the centre of a triangle between Tours, Poitiers and Chateauroux. There’s an interesting web site set up by a couple of Australians living in France which is worth exploring - Days on the Claise!
For more info see www.tourism-touraine.com

Over in Dijon (Cote d’Or, Burgundy) France’s leading micro-distiller Gabriel Boudier makes a Saffron Gin from a rediscovered French colonial recipe of eight natural botanicals.

Gabriel Boudier is a leading micro-distiller in Dijon France with a reputation for fine spirits since 1874. Saffron Gin is a unique recipe discovered in the archives of France’s colonial past when England and France both claimed India as their jewel and gin rich in exotic botanicals was the fashion. This handcrafted, small batch pot distilled gin is made from the finest natural botanicals, in addition to the Saffron which gives a delicately spicy character, the recipe has Juniper, Coriander, Lemon, Orange Peel, Angelica Seeds, Iris and Fennel, creating one of the most complex and memorable gins distilled today. Enjoy Saffron Gin on the rocks or with Tonic.

This exotic tipple is available from Arthur Rackham Emporia in Guildford and online.

UPDATE - the following additional info from Susan Walter at Days on the Claise:

I thought you might like to know that the Foire au Safran is one of those relatively recently revived ‘traditions’. Saffron hasn’t been grown commercially in the area for hundreds of years, but the local comité des fêtes thought it would be a fun theme to hang an annual event on. There are a few saffron growers, who take it very seriously and are keen to keep the tradition alive as far as possible, but it is acknowledged that it will never be more than a hobby for anyone. Bulbs are available for sale from one of the growers in the summer for anyone who wants to try them, and all the stall holders at the foire are very creative about introducing safran into their products. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable day and everyone is very relaxed and friendly. One of the hotels does a special saffron themed meal in the evening.

Chinon is one of the better known Loire Wines, with an attractive riverside town and castle at its heart, and a reputation for some of the best Cabernet Franc reds.
A little to the east of the town in Cravant-les-Coteaux Christophe Baudy and Jean-Martin Dutour own and run an impressive set of vineyards producing some of the best wines of the appellation. They also have a couple of gites to rent on the vineyard and offer an impressive list of recommendations for restaurants, chambres d’hotes and places to visit locally, such as the Azay-le-Rideau. They also provide a downloadable guide to the Chinon wine route .

For more info on the accommodation see www.baudry-dutour.com

In the UK wines from the Domaine du Roncée are available from Handford Wines (London)

In the heart of the Loire Valley there is an ideal solution for francophiles who are interested in wine. The Domaine de la Bellevue not only offers some stylish self-contained accommodation but also an opportunity to get really close to the process of transforming grapes into wine.

Surrounded by vineyards and sleepy hamlets our French/Anglo home is a delightful, peaceful retreat. Ideally located for discovering the Loire Valley and beyond, La Bellevue is conveniently close to Saumur, Chinon, Montreuil-Bellay, Fontevraud l’Abbaye and Angers.

In the company of a knowledgeable vigneron, wine-maker, discover the world of wine and enhance your understanding and recognition of an ‘inferior’/’superior’ wine. Spend time discovering how wine is produced at a stunning Domaine in the heart of the val de loire. Or perhaps try your hand at grape-picking during harvest.

With the added benefits that come with an English hostess and a French vigneron you can just enjoy the scenery and try the wines - or take a private wine tour with a winemaker - or have your own wine-tasting evening with expert advice and local knowledge - or if you are feeling really energetic (and no back problems) then get involved with the grape picking at harvest time.

Situated just south of Saumur, famous for its Sparkling Chenin Blanc, dry still white and the red Saumur-Champigny AC this is an area rich in chateaux, history and wine. The Domaine’s association with Domaine de la Paleine, a few kilometres away at Le Puy Notre Dame (49 Maine-et-Loire, Pays de Loire) gives you privileged access to a vineyard which has won recognition in the respected Guide Hachette des Vins de France, winning a Coup de Coeur in the 2008 edition for the red Saumur “Moulin des Quints” 2005 made from Cabernet Franc. They also produce Saumur Brut (sparkling), Saumur Blanc (dry white), Coteaux de Saumur (a dessert wine based on Chenin Blanc) and two rosés - Cabernet de Saumur (dry) and a Cabernet d’Anjou (medium dry) - see the website at www.domaine-paleine.com (there is more info on the French language version)

For more information on the Chambre d’Hote at Domaine de la Bellevue - see www.domainedelabellevue.com

Arthur Rackham’s in Guildford, Surrey have a regular BIG tasting and the next will be held on Saturday 27 October 2007 with the theme “wines and spirits of France.”

An impressive selection is offered for tasting including some Champagne, Bordeaux and Burgundy plus Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cahors, Alsace, Languedoc, Loire, Rhone and Armagnac:-

Lallier Brut Rose Premier Cru NV
Chateau La Rame Bordeaux Blanc 2006
Domaine du Bouchot Pouilly Fume 2005 (Loire)
Aegerter Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 abd Beaune Premier Cru Les Reversees Blanc 2005
Domaine d. l. Presidente Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2006
Domaine Belles Pierres Clauzes de Jo Blanc 2005 (Languedoc)
Zusslin Riesling Clos du Liebenberg 2002 (Alsace)
Aegerter Bourgogne Rouge 2005 and Gevrey Chambertin 2005
Chateau La Rame, Bordeaux 2005
Chateau Bujan, Cote du Bourg 2005
Chateau Caroline, Moulis-en-Medoc 2000
Chateau Mongravey, Mongravey 2005 (Margaux)
Domaine Belles Pierre Clauzes de Jo Rouge 2005 (Languedoc)
Chateau Haute-Serres, Cahors 2003 (Southwest France)
Domaine de la Presidente Cairenne Cote du Rhone 2005

Chateau La Rame Traditionnel St-Croix-du-Mont 2004

Comte du Lauvia VSOP Armagnac

There is a charge of £5.00 but that seems well worthwhile for the opportunity to taste your way through some of these wines,
SeeArthur Rackham.

Finding wines such as Cotes Roannaises AC (Upper Loire), Collioure AC (Roussillon), Madirans from Chateau de Viella, Jurancons from Domaine Cauhapé and Pic St Loup from Chateau de Lastours was a pleasant surprise in the midst of the very English Cotswold village of Chipping Campden (Glos) at Bennetts Fine Wines.
Côtes Roannaises wines come from the area around Roanne (42 Loire, Rhône-Alpes) and are based on the Gamay grape - but with rather more intensity than found in Beaujolais.
Collioure AC is a small appellation almost on the Spanish border and takes its name from the pretty little port of Collioure (66 Pyrenees-Orientales, Languedoc-Roussillon). Predominantly red and rosé wines, these are made from grapes picked at the beginning of the harvest - the latter pickings being used to make the fortified Banyuls wines. Nearby the wines of Maury are based on the Grenache grape are also fortified dessert wines, some of which are matured in sealed glass “bonbons” (large demijohns) which are left out in the sun to mature - such as those at Mas Amiel (see photo above).
The shop also has (more predictably) an impressive array of top quality (and top price) Claret, Burgundy, Champagne and Port for its well-heeled locals and a good selection of New World wines.
The old-style shop is complemented by an excellent website (see www.bennettsfinewines.com), mail order service, nationwide delivery, bottles open for tasting in the shop every Saturday and a series of wine tasting events held throughout the winter.

Bennetts Fine Wines
High, Street, Chipping Campden, Glos GL55 6AG
T: 01386 840392 F:01386 840974

Stage 4 Cholet - Cholet time trial in the Loire Valley
see www.letour.fr

Stage 3 St Malo to Nantes in Brittany
see www.letour.fr

Nantes is best known for being the major city on the western extremities of the River Loire – but it is also built on a smaller river, the River Erdre which runs in from the north.

In September the city celebrates a 3–day “meeting on the Erdre” (Rendezvous de l’Erdre) – a very French mix of music (jazz in all its styles from New Orleans to bebop, blues to electric) – all intertwined with the City’s maritime flavour – yachts, boats, ships – lots of cultural events, demonstrations and displays – 80 free concerts across the city!

For more info see http://www.rendezvouserdre.com

The Third edition of Le Marché des Vins de Saumur (49 Maine-et-Loire) on the Loire.
More than 6,000 visitors are expected. Tastings, auctions and a tour of the town will be the highlights of this weekend. Traditionally famous for sparkling white wines made from the Chenin Blanc grape, in recent years the red Cabernet Franc of Saumur-Champigny AC have become very fashionable.

How this wine market operates is simple and fun: on the way in, you buy a wine glass for 3€, and you can then taste all the wines and meet the producers of the different appellations: White and Red Saumur, Saumur Champigny, Cabernet de Saumur, Coteaux de Saumur, Crémant de Loire and Saumur Brut.

For more info see www.marchedesvinsdesaumur.com

Interesting and individual selection of French wines including

DOMAINE DES HUARDS, Cour-Cheverny AC    Cuvée Francois 1er 2002, Romorantin £ 8.25 The little known Romorantin grape is now exclusive to Cour-Cheverny. A favourite of Leonardo de Vinci, it produces a very individual wine. Dry with subtle fruits and a slightly “sherried” flavour.

Martlet Wines is internet-based (no shop) and provides a slightly quirky approach to their wine list – so you find wines by style (e.g. red wines are classified Light Fresh, Classical Medium-bodied, Fuller-bodied and Deep and Complex) which may be useful for many – although personally I prefer to search by region or grape variety,

I like the site overall, it feels knowledgeable and friendly! So good to find another adventurous wine merchant –  Martlet Wines also stocks a range of other top notch French wines – such as the wines of Mas de la Serranne in the Languedoc.

For more on Domaine des Huards see http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/huards.html

Situated a few miles east of Tours on the Loire, Vouvray produces a wide range of wine styles based on the Chenin Blanc - from dry to sweet, from still to sparkling - showing what a versatile grape variety this grape can be.
Discover Vouvray wines - presented by their makers - and a selection of local fine food specialities in the Caves de la Bonne Dame.

Between Nantes and Saint Nazaire on the Atlantic Coast - see www.frenchduck.com

We met with Madame Leduc early in our wine travels - and more by happenchance than design. Having been thoroughly disgruntled by a Loire negociant who was only interested in selling cheap sweet rose to the English, we found we had time on our hands and an almost forgotten introduction to this vineyard from a French-Canadian mutual acquaintance.

A warm welcome and good interesting wines greeted us, and we have been fans ever since. Nowadays Madame Leduc’s son and daughter (Antoine and Nathalie) have come back home to help Chantal run the vineyard, which has a very good local reputation - Antoine in the vines and cellar, Nathalie in the business and marketing side. With Madame Leduc’s extensive knowledge of her vines, Antoine’s passion and Nathalie’s organisational skills the domaine goes from strength to strength.

South of the Angers and the Loire river, near Martigne-Briand in the heart of the Anjou and Coteaux du Layon appellations, the domaine is situated at Sousigné. The domaine produces Anjou red, Anjou-Villages red, Anjou Blanc Sec (dry white), a Chardonnay, Cabernet d’Anjou, Rosé d’Anjou, Rosé de Loire, Coteaux du Layon (dessert wine) and sparking Saumur.

Visitors are always welcome - but do phone ahead in case they are busy in the cellar or vines.

“La Seigneurie” was the property of the Marquis de Becquedelivière until 1933 when the Leduc-Frouin family, who had cultivated it since 1873, became the owners. The vineyard has been using “natural” techniques for over 4 years now with a regime known as “Terra Vitis” - a charter for production which respects both the soil and the vine.
The domaine is run by Madame Leduc, her son, Antoine and his sister Nathalie - in the village of Sousigné to the east of Martigné-Briand and south of Angers.

The domaine is quite a beauty-spot with remains of numerous troglodyte dwellings dug out of the sedimentary rock.The 32 hectare vineyard itself is situated on a gently-rising slope facing south. For reds the Cabernet Franc and Grolleau grapes are grown, whilst for the whites it is predominantly Chenin Blanc with a small amount of Chardonnay.
All harvesting is undertaken by hand (about 30 people are required) enabling careful selection and cutting of the bunches.

For the white wines a delicate pressing is undertaken as soon as the grapes arrive in the cellar. The temperature during fermentation is kept between 15o and 20o. Rosé wines are obtained by a brief maceration of the skins for between 24 and 36 hours. For red wines the bunches are de-stemmed followed by maceration for a period of 10-15 days. The juice is pumped over daily to ensure that the maximum extract.

Anjou AC Rouge Domaine Leduc-Frouin
extraordinarliy fresh and fruity - tons of raspberry juiciness make this a delightful red and great example of a different style of Cabernet Franc than the 1998 vintage which we also listed. Significantly, this wine is made under the names of Antione & Nathalie Leduc - the younger generation - although the nature of the vintage is probably more significant, as Nathalie and Antoine have been actively involved in the domaine for many years.

Anjou-Villages AC Rouge Domaine Leduc-Frouin
This is an excellent example of Cabernet Franc - the red grape of the Loire. With some bottle age and older vines,the ripe raspberry fruitiness is blending wonderfully with the tannins to produce a seriously good wine with great depth and complexity - great with roast lamb!
“A light spicy aroma leads to a palate of blackcurrant fruits and ripe tannins”
Only Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are used - Cabernet Franc for elegance and smoothness, Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested from vines on stony hot soils, is responsible for the wines’ structure and tannins.
It is clear from its garnet red and intense colour that this is a fine wine of rich complexity, Its distinctive nose - the Cabernet Franc providing notes of violet, iris, strawberry and raspberry, combines with the Cabernet Sauvignon from which it takes its powerful aromas of blackcurrants and dewberries. The wine-making process and its maturing for at least 12 months in oak, result in a wine with smooth tannins, rich in substance and enabling it to age up to 15 years.

Cabernet d’Anjou AC Domaine Leduc-Frouin
A rich, sweeter rosé with delicate acidity and buckets of summerfruit flavours (Loire). This is not one of those indifferent Loire rosés we used to find in the supermarket - this has tons of character and a multiplicity of flavours AND, although sweetish, it is not a cloying sugary sweetness - more the natural sweetness of summer fruits. Don’t disregard it as a “wine for granny” (although Grannies will enjoy it I’m sure) - try it with spicy, exotic foods such as Thai or Chinese dishes where the flavours will both enhance and contrast with the wine.
UK Wines Online says “A blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The climate during 2003 has brought plenty of colour to this rosé; even with just 2 days maceration (colour extraction). Sweeter grapes too has boosted this wine, which, as Antoine Leduc stated is “fruity, sweet and fresh”. Quite light in body and very drinkable. While medium in style the touch of tannin on the finish gives the wine more substance than many a cheaper alternative.”

Domaine Leduc-Frouin, Sousigne, 48540 Martigne-Briand (see map)
T:+33 241.59.42.83
F:+33 241.59.47.90
E: info@leduc-frouin.com

For more info see www.leduc-frouin.com

South of Blois in the Touraine, Cheverny (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) offers good food, wine and hotels - see map (more…)