French Duck’s databank on France, French wine, French food, travel to and within France and events in France
Deep in the heart of Corbières country of the Aude département (11 Languedoc-Roussillon) is the impressive Chateau de Donos. This is close to rugged countryisde, away from the mediterranean beaches and the autoroutes. The wine is predominantly red, rich and full-bodied as you might expect from the landscape - and increasingly becoming one of the most characterful appellations of the region. My personal favourite, Castelmaure, is only a few kilometres away.
It is a superb region away from the summer crowds and with plenty to explore - wonderful landscapes, Cathar castles and great wines. And yet within easy reach of the Mediterranean coast if you want something different. Chateau de Donos produces wines (apparently not available in the UK), but also offers both B&B and self-catering accommodation. Their Corbières AC Tradition 2004 won a “coup de coeur” in the Guide Hachette des Vins 2008.
The Chambres d’Hote (B&B) accommodation is in the impressive main house (la Bastide) and comprises 3 rooms and 2 suites :
Facing south, in an environment where your tranquility will never be bothered, the rooms and Suites enjoy an exceptional setting with a view on the surounding landscape.
Following the restoration, the accommodation benefits from all modern conforts,including brand new and luxurious bathrooms.
The drawing room is very spacious and you can rest in a fresh place and watch T.V; In summer, Breakfasts are served outside in a country almost looking like the Florentine country with Cyprès trees, drystone wall and an old washer.
There are also 2 cottages to rent on the Estate which look totally charming.
For more info see www.chateaudonos.com
Aude Tourisme website
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| January 25, 2008 | to | January 26, 2008 |
| December 16, 2008 | to | December 21, 2008 |
In the east of France and to the east of Burgundy adjacent to Switzerland, the Ain is probably a little overlooked by most visitors.
With Bourg-en-Bresse as its principal town it is a region of gentle hills and river valleys - which is one of the hidden parts of France.
The departement includes Bugey and the wines of Bugey. These are VDQS wines (Vins Délimité de Qualité Superieure) - a classification between full Appellation Controllee and VIns de Pays. As such there are restrictions on grape varieties used and planting and harvesting techniques - and the grapes must be grown in the designated region. White wines from Chardonnay, Roussette; Rosé wines from Gamay and Poulsard; Reds from Gamay, Pinot and Mondeuse; and sparkling wines from Chardonnay. Seldom seen in the UK.
For an opportunity to taste some of these wines there is an open tasting in Lyon from 25-26 January 2008 - click here for more details
For more on the wines of Bugey see www.vinsdubugey.net
One of the highlights of the year is the celebration of the famous yellow corn-fed chickens from Bourg-en-Bresse - the Glorieuses de Bresse held every December shortly before Christmas (for 2008 it runs from 16-21 December 2008 - in the form of a market and other festivities held in Bourg-en-Bresse, Louhans, Pont de Vaux and Montrevel-en-Bresse - see www.glorieusesdebresse.com

More info - see the Ain Tourism Office
For an English run B&B in the region with a knowledgeable host and guide see B&B Burgundy
In the heart of the Loire Valley there is an ideal solution for francophiles who are interested in wine. The Domaine de la Bellevue not only offers some stylish self-contained accommodation but also an opportunity to get really close to the process of transforming grapes into wine.
Surrounded by vineyards and sleepy hamlets our French/Anglo home is a delightful, peaceful retreat. Ideally located for discovering the Loire Valley and beyond, La Bellevue is conveniently close to Saumur, Chinon, Montreuil-Bellay, Fontevraud l’Abbaye and Angers.
In the company of a knowledgeable vigneron, wine-maker, discover the world of wine and enhance your understanding and recognition of an ‘inferior’/’superior’ wine. Spend time discovering how wine is produced at a stunning Domaine in the heart of the val de loire. Or perhaps try your hand at grape-picking during harvest.
With the added benefits that come with an English hostess and a French vigneron you can just enjoy the scenery and try the wines - or take a private wine tour with a winemaker - or have your own wine-tasting evening with expert advice and local knowledge - or if you are feeling really energetic (and no back problems) then get involved with the grape picking at harvest time.
Situated just south of Saumur, famous for its Sparkling Chenin Blanc, dry still white and the red Saumur-Champigny AC this is an area rich in chateaux, history and wine. The Domaine’s association with Domaine de la Paleine, a few kilometres away at Le Puy Notre Dame (49 Maine-et-Loire, Pays de Loire) gives you privileged access to a vineyard which has won recognition in the respected Guide Hachette des Vins de France, winning a Coup de Coeur in the 2008 edition for the red Saumur “Moulin des Quints” 2005 made from Cabernet Franc. They also produce Saumur Brut (sparkling), Saumur Blanc (dry white), Coteaux de Saumur (a dessert wine based on Chenin Blanc) and two rosés - Cabernet de Saumur (dry) and a Cabernet d’Anjou (medium dry) - see the website at www.domaine-paleine.com (there is more info on the French language version)
For more information on the Chambre d’Hote at Domaine de la Bellevue - see www.domainedelabellevue.com
North of Macon at Igé (71 Saone-et-Loire, Burgundy) you could indulge in a wine and gastronomic stay at this aptly named Chambre d’Hote (B&B) In addition to 5 very spacious comfortable bedrooms in this former winemaker’s house, they offer Table d’Hote suppers and tutored food and wine tastings and tours in the heart of Burgundy - with an impressive cellar and wine museum.
The area is high on the hills north of the Beaujolais region, close to Pouilly-Fuissé AC and is particularly good for its Chardonnay-based white wines. We used to import the white Macon-Berzé AC from Chateau de
Berzé through our friends at Paul Beaudet - still available from Paul Beaudet in Pontanevaux in France.
Also in the vicinity is the Abbey of Cluny and a medieval town with many houses dating back to the 12th and 14th centuries. The magnificent landscapes of Solutré, Mont Saint Romain and the surrounding Charolais region are all within easy reach.
For more info see http://cote-vigne.suivezlagrappe.com
The limits of Cathar country in the Languedoc are ill-defined, but stretch south and east from Carcassonne (11 Aude, Languedoc-Roussillon) to include the impressive hilltop fortress such as Peyrepeteuse, Puilaurens and the ancient towns of Rennes-la-Chateau and Montsegur. The history has become somewhat muddied and over-hyped by recent best-seller books, but behind the commercialism there are wonderful sights to see and places to visit, regardless of how tentative their connection with the Cathar heresy.
The best way to explore the region is with the help of someone who lives there and knows it well - and you will need more than a few days to do it justice. Hence Sophie Duncan’s website at www.languedoc-france.info is an essential start point. Jam packed with tons of really useful information and advice, she also has a range of accommodation in the region to offer - from attractive gites, tempting B&Bs (Chambres d’Hote) and an impressive Penthouse in the heart of Carcassonne.
On the info side there is plenty on what to see and do from visitng some of Vauban’s fortifications, golf, nudist beaches, winter sports (including sledge dogs!) local food, history, nature reserves and wildlife. Not too much detail on wines (e.g. Corbieres, Fitou, Limoux) but that does at least leave something for FrenchDuck!!
For more info see www.languedoc-france.info
There are numerous options for getting closer to the wines of Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees), with their predominance of the Malbec grape (known locally as Auxerrois or Cot). Several domaines offer either Bed and Breakfast (Chambre d’Hote) or gites to rent.
Chateau les Grauzils at Prayseau sac - gite
Chateau Haut Monplaisir at Lacapelle-Cabanac - Cathy et Daniel Fournié Tel : 05.65.24.64.78 Fax : 05.65.24.68.90 E Mail : chateau.hautmonplaisir@wanadoo.fr - gite
(and their wines are top rate - especially the Cuvee Pur Plaisir!
Chateau Plat Faisant at St Vincent-Rive d’Olt TÉL : 05.65.30.76.38 FAX : 05.65.36.76.38
Chateau Vincens at Luzech - TÉL : 05.65.30.51.55 FAX : 05.65.20.15.83 - gite
Chateau de Rouffiac at Duravel - B&B (Chambre d’Hote)
Domaines Delmas (Chateau de Parnac) at Parnac - Chambres d’Hote and gite
One of Cahors’ top wine chateaux is the Chateau de Mercues, which is also a top class Michelin restaurant and hotel - the barrell-ageing cellar is under the hotel. Situated on a promontory to the west of Cahors, it offers stunning views over the Lot Valley. see www.relaischateaux.com
Although not actually on a vineyard, the Hotel Restaurant Le Vinois at Caillac (46 Lot) to the west of Cahors offers stylish accommodation surrounded by vines.
For more info on Cahors see www.mairie-cahors.fr

In the heart of the Cahors vineyards. home of the Malbec grape, in the département du Lot, Chateau de Rouffiac offers good wines and 4 stylish Bed & Breakfast (Chambres d’Hotes) in the midst of a 30hectare wine estate. The house and rooms are in rather grand style. Additionally they offer “Table d’Hotes” – so you can dine at the chateau too, although you can also explore the local eateries if you prefer.
The Chateau is at Duravel on the northern bank of the Lot river west of Puy l’Eveque. For more info see www.chateau-de-rouffiac.com

Lille (59 Nord, Nord-Pas-de-Calais) is a big and vibrant northern French city which is well worth a visit – but it’s not somewhere I associate with peace and tranquility.
We go most years to the Independent Winemakers Fair held in the Lille Grand Palais every November (16–19 November in 2007) and stay in city centre hotels – all very convenient for the wine fair, shops, restaurants etc.
But there is another option, which offers a bit of respite from the buzz of the city centre, but without losing ease of access.
The Jardin d’Alix (Alix’s garden) Chambres d’Hote (B&B) is in Tourcoing, part of the greater Lille conurbation, North East of Lille city centre. The stylish accommodation is set “amid a large garden with mature trees and rose bushes – a little piece of countryside close to the city.” The other bonus is that the property lies within 20 minutes reach of Lille’s historic centre, thanks to the tramway which leaves from just outside!
An added bonus means that you will also be near to the quite stunning Roubaix Piscine – the Museum of Art and Industry (Musée d’Art et d’Industrie de Roubaix) housed in an Art Deco swimming pool – a conversion undertaken by the same architect who transformed an old railway station into the fabulous Musée d’Orsay in Paris. It is worth visiting for the building itself, but the museum exhibits and paintings are seriously good – see http://www.roubaix-lapiscine.com
For more on the B&B see http://www.lejardindalix.com
In the upper Loire Valley lies the appellation of the Côtes Roannaise AC - from the region around Roanne (42 Loire, Rhône-Alpes) - although a long way from the area most of us associate with the Loire Valley,
These are wines based on the Gamay grapes - best known as the Beaujolais grape. Here Englishman Simon Hawkins and his wife Isabelle have developed a very successful vineyard - Domaine du Fontenay.
But they also offer Bed and Breakfast (Chambre d’Hote) on the domaine - with 4 non-smoking rooms themed after different grape varieties - Gamay, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir - the rooms offering great views over the vines - and the opportunity to taste some of the vineyard’s wines and learn something about wine-making in France.
For more on the domaine see www.domainedufontenay.com
Peniche Fantasia in Wambrechies (59 Nord, Nord Pas de Calais) on the outskirts of Lille(see map) This one offers wood-panelled rooms and air conditioning, and is moored in the centre of the town for easy access by bus into the heart of Lille in about 30 minutes.
For more info see www.peniche-fantasia.com
Peniche Fantasia Au Port de Plaisance, 59118 Wambrechies 0 T: 06 16 44 09 82
On the Canal du Midi there is a “peniche” (barge) offering B&B (or Chambres d’Hote). Peniche Soleiado is moored on the Canal at Ramonville-Saint-Agne - shaded by plane trees, breakfast (and supper) on deck and en-suite bedrooms.Situated just south of Toulouse (31 Haute Garonne, Midi-Pyrennes) this could be a novel place to stay - even the address sounds interestiing - Bridge of Eat Apples? (see map)
Peniche Soleiado, Pont-de-Mange Pomme. 31250 Ramonville-Saint-Agne T:06 86 27 83 19

In deepest Gascony, an English couple Karen and Nick Kitchener bought a vineyard producing Cotes de Gascogne wines and Armagnac at Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees).
The domaine offers both gite and Bed and Breakfast accommodation surrounded by the vines.
For more info see http://www.lauroux.com
For a rather different and eco-friendly B&B experience you could try this modern, well-equipped treehouse in southern Normandy
situated in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional du Perche, in southern Normandy, Perché dans le Perche is a two-bedroomed treehouse with a shower, panoramic views of the countryside and even internet access!!!
The Parc Naturel Régional du Perche is situated in the Orne departement, the nearest big town being Le Mans (72 Sarthe, Pays de la Loire). It covers an area of southern Normandy and is a great area for rambling, horse riding and exploring the gentle unspoilt countryside.
For more info on the treehouse see www.perchedansleperche.com
Unless you are lucky enough to live within an hour or so of the English Channel ports, the annual trip to and from France can be a bit of an ordeal. Dover crossings may be short, but tend to leave you with longer to drive on both sides of the Channel. The western Channel crossings are longer, but can be expensive, especially if you reserve a cabin for an overnight crossing.
And, whilst parts of northern France don’t always tempt you to pause, the routes through Brittany and Normandy offer a host of places which would be worth a linger!
Michael has recommended what looks to be an ideal stop-over to break the journey - just 90 minutes or so (135km) south of the Caen ferry terminal) at Ouistreham.
Le Basse Cour is run by Phil and Jude Graham at Ancinnes (72 Sarthe, Pays de Loire) near Alencon (61 Orne, Normandie), just 10 minutes from the new A28 autoroute, and right on the border between Normandy and the Loire Valley (Sarthe).
“Choose from three comfortable en-suite guest rooms with a three star Gites de France rating. The house is in a peaceful, quiet setting surrounded by wooded and planted gardens on the fringes of the magnificent Forest of Perseigne. You’re welcome to make yourself at home on the terrace with a glass of wine (or try the local Normandy cider) or enjoy a game of boules on the lawn.”
As Michael said ” it was so good that we stopped over for two more days on the way back to the port at Caen. Genial hosts, wonderful setting, super rooms.”
For more details see www.normandie-chambres.co.uk/
For map see (more…)
