French Duck’s databank on France, French wine, French food, travel to and within France and events in France
| February 16, 2008 |

A surprise to find Saffron being grown as far north as the southern Touraine, but the village of Preuilly-sur-Caise (37 Indre-et-Loire, Centre) celebrates this pricey spice with a Fete du Safran (16 Feb 2008) - fortunately held indoors at this time of year - where you can purchase saffron, and taste and buy saffron-infused products and/or try some special saffron recipes.
“The origins of saffron growing in southern Touraine are still shrouded in mystery. Today there are various theories of how it came about, including the practice being brought over by Arab armies in the 8th century and an original initiative by the monks at the local abbey. In any event, over the centuries the harvest of the precious Crocus sativus stigmas has become a veritable tradition in this southern part of Touraine . Every year, the one-day celebration that is Preuilly-sur-Claise Saffron Fair serves as a reminder of the fact. From 10 a .m. to 6 p.m. you can see the stalls bright with the magnificent purple colour of dried saffron, talk to the local producers about the best way of using the spice, and - why not - treat yourself to a sample of pure flavour? Remember, you only need a few stigmas to flavour a fish dish for example.”
The village lies in an attractive valley in the south of Touraine in the centre of a triangle between Tours, Poitiers and Chateauroux. There’s an interesting web site set up by a couple of Australians living in France which is worth exploring - Days on the Claise!
For more info see www.tourism-touraine.com
Over in Dijon (Cote d’Or, Burgundy) France’s leading micro-distiller Gabriel Boudier makes a Saffron Gin from a rediscovered French colonial recipe of eight natural botanicals.
Gabriel Boudier is a leading micro-distiller in Dijon France with a reputation for fine spirits since 1874. Saffron Gin is a unique recipe discovered in the archives of France’s colonial past when England and France both claimed India as their jewel and gin rich in exotic botanicals was the fashion. This handcrafted, small batch pot distilled gin is made from the finest natural botanicals, in addition to the Saffron which gives a delicately spicy character, the recipe has Juniper, Coriander, Lemon, Orange Peel, Angelica Seeds, Iris and Fennel, creating one of the most complex and memorable gins distilled today. Enjoy Saffron Gin on the rocks or with Tonic.
This exotic tipple is available from Arthur Rackham Emporia in Guildford and online.
UPDATE - the following additional info from Susan Walter at Days on the Claise:
I thought you might like to know that the Foire au Safran is one of those relatively recently revived ‘traditions’. Saffron hasn’t been grown commercially in the area for hundreds of years, but the local comité des fêtes thought it would be a fun theme to hang an annual event on. There are a few saffron growers, who take it very seriously and are keen to keep the tradition alive as far as possible, but it is acknowledged that it will never be more than a hobby for anyone. Bulbs are available for sale from one of the growers in the summer for anyone who wants to try them, and all the stall holders at the foire are very creative about introducing safran into their products. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable day and everyone is very relaxed and friendly. One of the hotels does a special saffron themed meal in the evening.
Chinon is one of the better known Loire Wines, with an attractive riverside town and castle at its heart, and a reputation for some of the best Cabernet Franc reds.
A little to the east of the town in Cravant-les-Coteaux Christophe Baudy and Jean-Martin Dutour own and run an impressive set of vineyards producing some of the best wines of the appellation. They also have a couple of gites to rent on the vineyard and offer an impressive list of recommendations for restaurants, chambres d’hotes and places to visit locally, such as the Azay-le-Rideau. They also provide a downloadable guide to the Chinon wine route .
For more info on the accommodation see www.baudry-dutour.com
In the UK wines from the Domaine du Roncée are available from Handford Wines (London)
It all started in Paris with the Velib’ Scheme - an amalgam of Velo (cycle) and Liberte (free), which has been a tremendous success.
The latest we’ve come across is the Velomagg in Montepellier (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon).
Vélib’ is a Self Service “bike hire” system available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Multi pick up and drop off location allows you to pick up your bike from one service point and drop off to another.
. You need to subscribe, but for visitors there are 1-day and 7-day subscriptions and after the first 30 minutes you pay by the half-hour - e.g. a 90-minute hire will cost just €3 and you can pick up and drop off your bike at any of the hundreds of self-service stations across the city.
The Velib’ scheme has been based on a similar scheme VeloV in Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) France’s second city. The combination of these eco-friendly and fitness focussed schemes is now spreading throughout France:-
VeloCite in Mulhouse (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace) and Besancon (25 Doubs, Franche-Comté)
Vhello in Aix-en-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence)
Le Velo in Marseille (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence)
Velo in Toulouse (34 Haut Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees)
Nantes (44 Loire-Atlantique, Val de Loire)
Rouen (76 Seine Maritime, Normandy)
Bordeaux (33 Gironde, Aquitaine)
Velostan in Nancy (54 Meurthe et Moselle, Lorraine)
Velo+ in Orleans (45 Loiret, Centre)
This is clearly a popular scheme, mainly aimed at local residents but may also offer a different way of seeing some of France’s major cities from a different perspective. However, I would recommend choosing a city with good cycle lanes and paths - you do get the impression that traffic in many of France’s cities is not very forgiving with errant cyclists - so do not try cycling around the rond-point of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris!!

Our discovery of Les Trois Marchands (The Three Merchants) at Cour-Cheverny (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) was a recommendation from Michel Gendrier at nearby Domaine des Huards- and we have been back at least half-a-dozen times since.
Situated about 12km south of Blois, it is ideally situated for the Touraine chateaux and vineyards, including Domaine Octavie at Oisly.
As a hotel it falls into the OK category - neither luxurious nor spartan - comfortable, affordable en-suite rooms in the French style (although heavy flock wallpaper is absent!). It is the restaurant that (as usual) is the main attraction - especially if you feel up to tacking the Menu Gastronomique! Always good food - with a wide range of choice - excellent local wines and friendly service. We have never had a bad meal there - even when turning up late and unannounced with a party of 8!!
Hotel Les Trois Marchands
60 pl. de l’Eglise
41700 Cour Cheverny
Tél.: 02 54 79 96 44
Fax: 02 54 79 25 60
www.hoteldes3marchands.com
Most French autoroutes between major towns and cities are toll motorways, which whilst often offering fast and uncrowded dual-carriageways, can nevertheless add significantly to the cost of a trip through France - e.g over €90 (over £60) on a one-way trip from Calais to Nice (1226km of motorway driving about 760 miles).
However there are significant sections of autoroute which are toll free - most often these are around major towns and Cities (Paris, Bordeaux, Lyon etc).
In the North, the A16 is toll-free from Boulogne (J29) to the Belgian border (J36) via Calais and Dunkerque. The A25 from Dunkerque (J20) to Lille is free, so you can reach Lille from the main Channel ports without paying a toll!. Also all routes from Lille to the Belgian border.
The following autoroutes are toll free (as at September 2007)
A16 (part of the Autoroute des Estuaires (estuaries)) from Boulogne-sur-Mer (J29) to the Belgian border(J36)
A20 (L’Occitane) from Vierzon (J6 junction with A71) to Brive-la-Gaillarde (J53) via Chateauroux, Argenton and Limoges
A25 from Dunkerque (J20 with A16) to Lille
A28 from Abbeville (J1) to Rouen (J14)
A30/A31 (Autoroute de la Vallée de la Fensch) from Thionville (J1) to Toul (J12) via Metz and Nancy
A38 from Dijon (J33) to Pouilly-sur-Auxois (J24 and the junction with the A6)
A63 (Autoroute de la Cote Basque) from Bordeaux to Bellin-Bellet (J20)
A64 (la Pyreneenne) from St Martory (J20) to Muret (J25)
A68 (la Tarnaise) from Monastruc (J3 NE of Toulouse) to Albi (J11) via Gaillac
A75 (la Meridienne) from Clermont-Ferrand (J15) to Pezenas (J59) (except for the Millau Bridge) via Issoire
A77 (Autoroute de l’Arbre (trees)) from Pouilly (J26) to Nevers (J37)
A84 from Caen (J46) to Rennes (J25) via Avranches
| September 19, 2007 | to | September 23, 2007 |

Orleans (45 Loiret, Centre) celebrates Europe’s last wild river, the Loire, with a meeting of French and foreign traditional riverboats. Nautical demonstrations, water shows, magical evenings, dinner-dances, Loire crafts and products village, conferences, exhibitions. This is the Loire like you’ve never seen before !
For more info see www.festivaldeloire.com

Interesting and individual selection of French wines including
DOMAINE DES HUARDS, Cour-Cheverny AC
Cuvée Francois 1er 2002, Romorantin
£ 8.25
The little known Romorantin grape is now exclusive to Cour-Cheverny. A favourite of Leonardo de Vinci, it produces a very individual wine. Dry with subtle fruits and a slightly “sherried” flavour.
Martlet Wines is internet-based (no shop) and provides a slightly quirky approach to their wine list – so you find wines by style (e.g. red wines are classified Light Fresh, Classical Medium-bodied, Fuller-bodied and Deep and Complex) which may be useful for many – although personally I prefer to search by region or grape variety,
I like the site overall, it feels knowledgeable and friendly! So good to find another adventurous wine merchant – Martlet Wines also stocks a range of other top notch French wines – such as the wines of Mas de la Serranne in the Languedoc.
For more on Domaine des Huards see http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/huards.html
| August 11, 2007 | ||
| August 15, 2007 |
Situated a few miles east of Tours on the Loire, Vouvray produces a wide range of wine styles based on the Chenin Blanc - from dry to sweet, from still to sparkling - showing what a versatile grape variety this grape can be.
Discover Vouvray wines - presented by their makers - and a selection of local fine food specialities in the Caves de la Bonne Dame.
| July 6, 2007 | to | July 7, 2007 |

2000 candles will illuminate the magnificent Renaissance chateau and gardens at Villandry (37, Indre-et-Loire, Centre) west of Tours in the Loire Valley - culminating with a magnificent firework display.
The number of budget airline routes to France from the UK is continuing to grow, as is the number of French destinations - no longer restricted to the major cities. This really does open up some of the less well-known parts of France.
The list below shows the extent of the coverage - and this excludes flights to Paris which are available from most local airports. Some flights are seasonal, so please check with the airline for timetables and availability.
| Destination | From | airline |
| Angers | Manchester | Aer Arran |
| Angers | Exeter | flybe |
| Avignon | Southampton | flybe |
| Avignon | Southampton | flybe |
| Bergerac | Belfast | flybe |
| Bergerac | Birmingham | flybe |
| Bergerac | Bristol | flybe |
| Bergerac | Exeter | flybe |
| Bergerac | Leeds/Bradford | flybe |
| Bergerac | Liverpool | Ryanair |
| Bergerac | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Bergerac | London Gatwick | flybe |
| Bergerac | Manchester | flybe |
| Bergerac | Nottingham/E.Mids | Ryanair |
| Bergerac | Southampton | flybe |
| Biarritz | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Bordeaux | Bristol | easyJet |
| Bordeaux | Bristol | flybe |
| Bordeaux | Southampton | flybe |
| Bordeaux | Birmingham | bmibaby |
| Bordeaux | Luton | easyJet |
| Bordeaux | Manchester | bmibaby |
| Bordeaux | Norwich | flybe |
| Bordeaux | Nottingham/E Mids | bmibaby |
| Brest | Birmingham | flybe |
| Brest | Exeter | flybe |
| Brest | Southampton | flybe |
| Carcassonne | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Carcassonne | Nottingham/E Mids | Ryanair |
| Chambery | Bristol | Excel |
| Chambery | Leeds | Jet2 |
| Chambery | Manchester | Jet2 |
| Chambery | Southampton | flybe |
| Chambery | Birmingham | flybe |
| Chambery | Exeter | flybe |
| Chambery | Norwich | flybe |
| Cherbourg | Southampton | flybe |
| cancelled | ||
| Dinard | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Dinard | Nottingham/E Mids | Ryanair |
| Geneva | Liverpool | easyJet |
| Geneva | Doncaster/Sheffield | easyJet |
| Geneva | Bournemouth | easyJet |
| Geneva | Bristol | easyJet |
| Geneva | Edinburgh | easyJet |
| Geneva | Glasgow | easyJet |
| Geneva | London Stansted | easyJet |
| Geneva | London Gatwick | easyJet |
| Geneva | London Luton | easyJet |
| Geneva | Newcastle | easyJet |
| Geneva | Nottingham/E.Mids | easyJet |
| Geneva | Birmingham | bmibaby |
| Geneva | Cardiff | bmibaby |
| Geneva | Nottingham/E.Mids | bmibaby |
| Geneva | Manchester | bmibaby |
| Grenoble | Bristol | easyJet |
| Grenoble | East Midlands | Ryanair |
| Grenoble | Glasgow (Prestwick) | Ryanair |
| Grenoble | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Grenoble | Liverpool | Ryanair |
| Grenoble | Heathrow | BA |
| Grenoble | London Luton | easyJet |
| Grenoble | London Gatwick | easyJet |
| La Rochelle | Birmingham | flybe |
| La Rochelle | Bristol | easyJet |
| La Rochelle | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| La Rochelle | Manchester | flybe |
| La Rochelle | Southampton | flybe |
| le Havre | Shoreham | Euroexec |
| Le Touquet | Lydd | Lyddair |
| Le Touquet | Shoreham | Euroexec |
| Lille | Leeds/Bradford | bmi |
| Limoges | Southampton | flybe |
| Limoges | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Limoges | Liverpool | Ryanair |
| Limoges | Manchester | flybe |
| Limoges | Nottingham/E.Mids | Ryanair |
| Lorient | London Luton | AerArran |
| Lyon | Heathrow | bmibaby |
| Lyon | London Stansted | easyJet |
| Lyon | Bournemouth | thomsonfly |
| Lyon | Coventry | thomsonfly |
| Lyon | Manchester | BA |
| Lyon | Doncaster/Sheffield | thomsonfly |
| Marseille | Bristol | easyJet |
| Marseille | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Marseille | London Gatwick | easyJet |
| Montpellier | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Nantes | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Nantes | London Gatwick | Air France |
| Nantes | Nottingham/E.Mids | Ryanair |
| Nice | Bristol | easyJet |
| Nice | Liverpool | easyJet |
| Nice | London Gatwick | easyJet |
| Nice | London Luton | easyJet |
| Nice | London Stansted | easyJet |
| Nice | Newcastle | easyJet |
| Nice | Birmingham | bmibaby |
| Nice | Birmingham | BA |
| Nice | London Heathrow | bmibaby |
| Nice | Nottingham/E.Mids | bmibaby |
| Nice | Leeds | Jet2 |
| Nice | Manchester | Jet2 |
| Nice | Southampton | flybe |
| Nice | Manchester | BA |
| Nimes | London Luton | Ryanair |
| Nimes | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Nimes | Liverpool | Ryanair |
| Nimes | Nottingham/E.Mids | Ryanair |
| Pau | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Perpignan | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Perpignan | Birmingham | flybe |
| Perpignan | Southampton | flybe |
| Poitiers | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Rennes | Cardiff | AirWales |
| Rennes | Edinburgh | flybe |
| Rennes | Manchester | AirWales |
| Rennes | Waterford | AirWales |
| Rennes | Southampton | flybe |
| Rodez | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Rouen | Shoreham | Euroexec |
| Santander/Bilbao | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| St Etienne | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Strasbourg | London Gatwick | Air France |
| Toulon | London Stansted | Ryanair |
| Toulouse | Birmingham | flybe |
| Toulouse | Bristol | flybe |
| Toulouse | Bristol | easyJet |
| Toulouse | London Gatwick | easyJet |
| Toulouse | Manchester | bmibaby |
| Tours | London Stansted | Ryanair |
Le Canard au Parapluie Rouge, or the “Duck with red umbrella” has a good start with a memorable name for a B&B - sounds a bit more exciting than the Hotel de la Gare (Station Hotel) which was its original name.
Situated south of Argenton-sur-Creuse (36 Indre, Centre -see map) just off the A20 autoroute about 200 miles south of Paris, this could make an ideal stop-over en route to or from the Dordogne, Lot and Toulouse - and tends to be one of those areas that many of us hurtle through (especially with the new A20 Autoroute “l’Occitaine”) on our way south or north.
Argenton-sur-Creuse is known as the “Venice of the Berry” (a former province of Central France) is a delightful spot on the River Creuse with medieval streets and chateau in the middle of an unspoilt area of France.The quiet and pretty small village of Celon is a few kilometres south.
“Le Canard au Parapluie Rouge is a lovely period country home situated on three and half acres of grounds and gardens. …. Now the property has been completely updated with all modern conveniences and offers several en-suite bedrooms. You will find the style of Le Canard a delightful mix of eclectic furnishings from around the world creating a very cozy & welcoming ambiance.”
For more info see www.lecanardbandb.com.
South of Blois in the Touraine, Cheverny (41 Loir-et-Cher, Centre) offers good food, wine and hotels - see map (more…)
