FrenchDuck’s databank
Pays de la Loire

It all started in Paris with the Velib’ Scheme - an amalgam of Velo (cycle) and Liberte (free), which has been a tremendous success.

The latest we’ve come across is the Velomagg in Montepellier (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon).

Vélib’ is a Self Service “bike hire” system available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Multi pick up and drop off location allows you to pick up your bike from one service point and drop off to another.

. You need to subscribe, but for visitors there are 1-day and 7-day subscriptions and after the first 30 minutes you pay by the half-hour - e.g. a 90-minute hire will cost just €3 and you can pick up and drop off your bike at any of the hundreds of self-service stations across the city.

The Velib’ scheme has been based on a similar scheme VeloV in Lyon (69 Rhone, Rhone-Alpes) France’s second city. The combination of these eco-friendly and fitness focussed schemes is now spreading throughout France:-
VeloCite in Mulhouse (68 Haut-Rhin, Alsace) and Besancon (25 Doubs, Franche-Comté)
Vhello in Aix-en-Provence (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence)
Le Velo in Marseille (13 Bouches-du-Rhone, Provence)
Velo in Toulouse (34 Haut Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees)
Nantes (44 Loire-Atlantique, Val de Loire)
Rouen (76 Seine Maritime, Normandy)
Bordeaux (33 Gironde, Aquitaine)
Velostan in Nancy (54 Meurthe et Moselle, Lorraine)
Velo+ in Orleans (45 Loiret, Centre)

This is clearly a popular scheme, mainly aimed at local residents but may also offer a different way of seeing some of France’s major cities from a different perspective. However, I would recommend choosing a city with good cycle lanes and paths - you do get the impression that traffic in many of France’s cities is not very forgiving with errant cyclists - so do not try cycling around the rond-point of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris!!

Stage 4 Cholet - Cholet time trial in the Loire Valley
see www.letour.fr

With the 2007 Rugby World Cup kicking off in early September, it is worth knowing when and where the matches are to be held - if only so that you can avoid the additional heavy traffic for several hours around the match time. Particularly susceptible to congestion will be the Paris Peripherique and the A1 autoroute entry to the city - the Parc des Princes and Stade de France are both close to the autoroute and peripherique, and if match time is anywhere near the evening rush hour the traffic will be even more chaotic.
For more details on the Rugby World Cup CLICK HERE
For map click (more…)

Nantes is best known for being the major city on the western extremities of the River Loire – but it is also built on a smaller river, the River Erdre which runs in from the north.

In September the city celebrates a 3–day “meeting on the Erdre” (Rendezvous de l’Erdre) – a very French mix of music (jazz in all its styles from New Orleans to bebop, blues to electric) – all intertwined with the City’s maritime flavour – yachts, boats, ships – lots of cultural events, demonstrations and displays – 80 free concerts across the city!

For more info see http://www.rendezvouserdre.com

Orleans (45 Loiret, Centre) celebrates Europe’s last wild river, the Loire, with a meeting of French and foreign traditional riverboats. Nautical demonstrations, water shows, magical evenings, dinner-dances, Loire crafts and products village, conferences, exhibitions. This is the Loire like you’ve never seen before !

For more info see www.festivaldeloire.com

The Third edition of Le Marché des Vins de Saumur (49 Maine-et-Loire) on the Loire.
More than 6,000 visitors are expected. Tastings, auctions and a tour of the town will be the highlights of this weekend. Traditionally famous for sparkling white wines made from the Chenin Blanc grape, in recent years the red Cabernet Franc of Saumur-Champigny AC have become very fashionable.

How this wine market operates is simple and fun: on the way in, you buy a wine glass for 3€, and you can then taste all the wines and meet the producers of the different appellations: White and Red Saumur, Saumur Champigny, Cabernet de Saumur, Coteaux de Saumur, Crémant de Loire and Saumur Brut.

For more info see www.marchedesvinsdesaumur.com

Interesting and individual selection of French wines including

DOMAINE DES HUARDS, Cour-Cheverny AC    Cuvée Francois 1er 2002, Romorantin £ 8.25 The little known Romorantin grape is now exclusive to Cour-Cheverny. A favourite of Leonardo de Vinci, it produces a very individual wine. Dry with subtle fruits and a slightly “sherried” flavour.

Martlet Wines is internet-based (no shop) and provides a slightly quirky approach to their wine list – so you find wines by style (e.g. red wines are classified Light Fresh, Classical Medium-bodied, Fuller-bodied and Deep and Complex) which may be useful for many – although personally I prefer to search by region or grape variety,

I like the site overall, it feels knowledgeable and friendly! So good to find another adventurous wine merchant –  Martlet Wines also stocks a range of other top notch French wines – such as the wines of Mas de la Serranne in the Languedoc.

For more on Domaine des Huards see http://www.frenchduck.co.uk/huards.html

Wales v Fiji in Nantes

England v Samoa in Nantes

Wales v Canada in Nantes

The normally quiet coastal village of Batz-sur-Mer (44 Loire-Atlantique, Pays de la Loire) goes a little crazy for 3 days in July with their Nuits Salines - salty nights of music and dance - culminating in a Fest Noz (Festival of the Night) which is a traditional Breton festival, similar to a ceilidh - with traditional music, dancing and drinking!!

More info
see map

Between Nantes and Saint Nazaire on the Atlantic Coast - see www.frenchduck.com

In the upper Loire Valley lies the appellation of the Côtes Roannaise AC - from the region around Roanne (42 Loire, Rhône-Alpes) - although a long way from the area most of us associate with the Loire Valley,
These are wines based on the Gamay grapes - best known as the Beaujolais grape. Here Englishman Simon Hawkins and his wife Isabelle have developed a very successful vineyard - Domaine du Fontenay.
But they also offer Bed and Breakfast (Chambre d’Hote) on the domaine - with 4 non-smoking rooms themed after different grape varieties - Gamay, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir - the rooms offering great views over the vines - and the opportunity to taste some of the vineyard’s wines and learn something about wine-making in France.

For more on the domaine see www.domainedufontenay.com

The number of budget airline routes to France from the UK is continuing to grow, as is the number of French destinations - no longer restricted to the major cities. This really does open up some of the less well-known parts of France.
The list below shows the extent of the coverage - and this excludes flights to Paris which are available from most local airports. Some flights are seasonal, so please check with the airline for timetables and availability.

For a rather different and eco-friendly B&B experience you could try this modern, well-equipped treehouse in southern Normandy
situated in the heart of the Parc Naturel Régional du Perche, in southern Normandy, Perché dans le Perche is a two-bedroomed treehouse with a shower, panoramic views of the countryside and even internet access!!!
The Parc Naturel Régional du Perche is situated in the Orne departement, the nearest big town being Le Mans (72 Sarthe, Pays de la Loire). It covers an area of southern Normandy and is a great area for rambling, horse riding and exploring the gentle unspoilt countryside.
For more info on the treehouse see www.perchedansleperche.com

Unless you are lucky enough to live within an hour or so of the English Channel ports, the annual trip to and from France can be a bit of an ordeal. Dover crossings may be short, but tend to leave you with longer to drive on both sides of the Channel. The western Channel crossings are longer, but can be expensive, especially if you reserve a cabin for an overnight crossing.
And, whilst parts of northern France don’t always tempt you to pause, the routes through Brittany and Normandy offer a host of places which would be worth a linger!
Michael has recommended what looks to be an ideal stop-over to break the journey - just 90 minutes or so (135km) south of the Caen ferry terminal) at Ouistreham.
Le Basse Cour is run by Phil and Jude Graham at Ancinnes (72 Sarthe, Pays de Loire) near Alencon (61 Orne, Normandie), just 10 minutes from the new A28 autoroute, and right on the border between Normandy and the Loire Valley (Sarthe).
“Choose from three comfortable en-suite guest rooms with a three star Gites de France rating. The house is in a peaceful, quiet setting surrounded by wooded and planted gardens on the fringes of the magnificent Forest of Perseigne. You’re welcome to make yourself at home on the terrace with a glass of wine (or try the local Normandy cider) or enjoy a game of boules on the lawn.”
As Michael said ” it was so good that we stopped over for two more days on the way back to the port at Caen. Genial hosts, wonderful setting, super rooms.”
For more details see www.normandie-chambres.co.uk/
For map see (more…)

We met with Madame Leduc early in our wine travels - and more by happenchance than design. Having been thoroughly disgruntled by a Loire negociant who was only interested in selling cheap sweet rose to the English, we found we had time on our hands and an almost forgotten introduction to this vineyard from a French-Canadian mutual acquaintance.

A warm welcome and good interesting wines greeted us, and we have been fans ever since. Nowadays Madame Leduc’s son and daughter (Antoine and Nathalie) have come back home to help Chantal run the vineyard, which has a very good local reputation - Antoine in the vines and cellar, Nathalie in the business and marketing side. With Madame Leduc’s extensive knowledge of her vines, Antoine’s passion and Nathalie’s organisational skills the domaine goes from strength to strength.

South of the Angers and the Loire river, near Martigne-Briand in the heart of the Anjou and Coteaux du Layon appellations, the domaine is situated at Sousigné. The domaine produces Anjou red, Anjou-Villages red, Anjou Blanc Sec (dry white), a Chardonnay, Cabernet d’Anjou, Rosé d’Anjou, Rosé de Loire, Coteaux du Layon (dessert wine) and sparking Saumur.

Visitors are always welcome - but do phone ahead in case they are busy in the cellar or vines.

“La Seigneurie” was the property of the Marquis de Becquedelivière until 1933 when the Leduc-Frouin family, who had cultivated it since 1873, became the owners. The vineyard has been using “natural” techniques for over 4 years now with a regime known as “Terra Vitis” - a charter for production which respects both the soil and the vine.
The domaine is run by Madame Leduc, her son, Antoine and his sister Nathalie - in the village of Sousigné to the east of Martigné-Briand and south of Angers.

The domaine is quite a beauty-spot with remains of numerous troglodyte dwellings dug out of the sedimentary rock.The 32 hectare vineyard itself is situated on a gently-rising slope facing south. For reds the Cabernet Franc and Grolleau grapes are grown, whilst for the whites it is predominantly Chenin Blanc with a small amount of Chardonnay.
All harvesting is undertaken by hand (about 30 people are required) enabling careful selection and cutting of the bunches.

For the white wines a delicate pressing is undertaken as soon as the grapes arrive in the cellar. The temperature during fermentation is kept between 15o and 20o. Rosé wines are obtained by a brief maceration of the skins for between 24 and 36 hours. For red wines the bunches are de-stemmed followed by maceration for a period of 10-15 days. The juice is pumped over daily to ensure that the maximum extract.

Anjou AC Rouge Domaine Leduc-Frouin
extraordinarliy fresh and fruity - tons of raspberry juiciness make this a delightful red and great example of a different style of Cabernet Franc than the 1998 vintage which we also listed. Significantly, this wine is made under the names of Antione & Nathalie Leduc - the younger generation - although the nature of the vintage is probably more significant, as Nathalie and Antoine have been actively involved in the domaine for many years.

Anjou-Villages AC Rouge Domaine Leduc-Frouin
This is an excellent example of Cabernet Franc - the red grape of the Loire. With some bottle age and older vines,the ripe raspberry fruitiness is blending wonderfully with the tannins to produce a seriously good wine with great depth and complexity - great with roast lamb!
“A light spicy aroma leads to a palate of blackcurrant fruits and ripe tannins”
Only Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are used - Cabernet Franc for elegance and smoothness, Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested from vines on stony hot soils, is responsible for the wines’ structure and tannins.
It is clear from its garnet red and intense colour that this is a fine wine of rich complexity, Its distinctive nose - the Cabernet Franc providing notes of violet, iris, strawberry and raspberry, combines with the Cabernet Sauvignon from which it takes its powerful aromas of blackcurrants and dewberries. The wine-making process and its maturing for at least 12 months in oak, result in a wine with smooth tannins, rich in substance and enabling it to age up to 15 years.

Cabernet d’Anjou AC Domaine Leduc-Frouin
A rich, sweeter rosé with delicate acidity and buckets of summerfruit flavours (Loire). This is not one of those indifferent Loire rosés we used to find in the supermarket - this has tons of character and a multiplicity of flavours AND, although sweetish, it is not a cloying sugary sweetness - more the natural sweetness of summer fruits. Don’t disregard it as a “wine for granny” (although Grannies will enjoy it I’m sure) - try it with spicy, exotic foods such as Thai or Chinese dishes where the flavours will both enhance and contrast with the wine.
UK Wines Online says “A blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The climate during 2003 has brought plenty of colour to this rosé; even with just 2 days maceration (colour extraction). Sweeter grapes too has boosted this wine, which, as Antoine Leduc stated is “fruity, sweet and fresh”. Quite light in body and very drinkable. While medium in style the touch of tannin on the finish gives the wine more substance than many a cheaper alternative.”

Domaine Leduc-Frouin, Sousigne, 48540 Martigne-Briand (see map)
T:+33 241.59.42.83
F:+33 241.59.47.90
E: info@leduc-frouin.com

For more info see www.leduc-frouin.com

The winemakers of Anjou and Saumur offer to brighten up February with a weekend wine Festival on 24 and 25 February 2007 at Challonnes-sur-Loire (49 Maine-et-Loire, Val de Loire - see map). This is not be be confused with the Loire Valley Wine Fair in Angers at the end of January, which is a trade event. This Fete des Vins d’Anjou sounds much more fun with an opportunity to taste wines from the 29 appellations in Anjou/Saumur (no - I could not identify all of them) - and an exhibition on wine, Anjou wine tasting and a tour of the cellars, an exhibition of agricultural and wine-growing equipment, “a wine brotherhoods parade complete with enthronements” (i.e. mainly men dressing up in strange garb and indulging in some quasi-historical ceremonies) and a contest to find the “Best Anjou Tasters”.
The region does offer pretty much the whole gamut of red, white and rosé wines, dry, medium, dessert; still and sparkling - you might be surprised at the quality of some of the Cabernet Franc reds!
Not sure if our friends from Domaine Leduc-Frouin will be there - we used to stock their wines and miss the chance to taste them as regularly as we used to. But I hear recently that they had a good write up in the “Revue du Vin de France”, France’s most serious wine magazine - their red Anjou Rouge AV 2005 was rated at 17.5/20 and an impressive 19/20 for their stunning dessert Chenin - Coteaux du Layon AC Nectar 2002.
For more info on the domaine and their wines see www.leduc-frouin.com
For more info see www.fetedesvins-anjou.fr (site incomplete at time of writing).

Isabelle & Noe Rouballay own and run this charming small domaine in southern Touraine on a plateau between the Loire and Cher rivers at Oisly SEE MAP

This family run domaine is totally focussed on producing quality wines. They adhere to the TERRA VITIS approach, which whilst not truly organic, is a system which minimises the use of artificial fertilisers and pesticides, with a view to ensuring that the soil and “terroir” remain healthy and productive for future harvests and generations. Two-thirds of their production is for white wines (i.e. Sauvignon)

The Loire Valley is often over-looked for good quality wines, but this is changing as some of the better winemakers are really concentrating on good quality, small yields and careful vinification. The climate here is more influenced by the continent rather than the Atlantic Ocean compared to the rest of the Loire Valley, and hence is often a little warmer and drier.
Sauvignon Blanc is the star grape variety in this region, but very good reds are also produced.
TOURAINE SAUVIGNON AC - Domaine Octavie
The combination of soil and climate make this region especially good for Sauvignon Blanc. Being cooler than wine regions further south means that good crisp, full-flavoured Sauvignon can be made, but without excessive acidity which can sometimes spoil these wines. (The area is close to the classic Sancerre & Pouilly-Fumé areas, which arguably produce the best northern hemisphere Sauvignons, albeit at a price.) This wine from Domaine Octavie is delightful - dry, fresh, clean flavours with well-balanced acidity. On the nose it is quite complex and aromatic - grassy, gooseberry tones.

TOURAINE AC Cuvee Fragrance, Domaine Octavie
Despite a relatively cool climate, the region (and this domaine) can also produce good reds, which tend to be less tannic than wines from further south in France. As always it is a matter of choosing the right grape varieties which have the potential to produce wonderful wines.
This cuvée is a very successful blend of Gamay (immediate and accessible fruitiness), Cabernet Franc (the red Loire grape - raspberry, earthy tones) and Cot (also known as Auxerrois or Malbec) which brings body and structure to the wine. Skilled blending by Noe Rouballay yields a lovely fruity, classy red with lots of upfront fruit, yet satisfyingly long in the mouth. Great with cold meats, pasta etc.
CONTACT -
Isabelle & Noe Rouballay, Domaine Octavie, 41700 OISLY SEE MAP
TÉL : 02.54.79.54.57 FAX : 02.54.79.65.20
www.domaineoctavie.com

Sancerre (18 Cher, Centre) is world-renown vineyard (and pretty town) in the mid-Loire Valley, The town is situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Loire river and providing a superb view of the vineyards which enjoy the natural slopes on limestone and marl.
It is recognised for its Sauvignon Blanc wines - dry and minerally - although in the past it had been better known for its red Pinot Noir, which is still produced albeit in smaller quantities.