FrenchDuck’s databank
Midi Pyrenees

French Duck’s databank on France, French wine, French food, travel to and within France and events in France

Jazz in Marciac

July 30, 2007toAugust 15, 2007

Jazz in Marciac

Jazz in Marciac, (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees)

This normally tranquil bastide town in deepest Gascony hosts a world-class Jazz festival during the first three weeks on August every year inaugurated by Wynton Marsalis who is also appearing this year along with others such as Madeleine Peyroux, Joe Cocker, Chuck Corea.

Although the summer season is the highlight, other concerts are held throughout the year.
See www.jazzinmarciac.com/
Tel: 33 (0)5 62 08 26 60

Nearby vineyards include Domaine de Lauroux and Producteurs Plaimont

Tempo Latino at Vic Fezensac

July 26, 2007toJuly 29, 2007

Tempo Latino 2007Festival of Afro, Cuban, Salsa and Latin music and dance, in the middle of the otherwise sleepy département of Gers (32, Midi-Pyrenees) - snazzy website at www.tempo-latino.com/

Whilst in the region you could visit our friends at Domaine de Lauroux to taste some of their wines and Armagnacs, or even try their B&B on the vineyard.

Tour de France 2007 - Stage 18

July 27, 2007

From Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) across the Dordogne (24 Dordogne, Aquitaine) and on to Angouleme (15 Charente, Poitou-Charentes) through the heart of South West and into Cognac country.
Cahors design T-shirt
Cahors is probably one of my favourite towns, greatly improved now that the A20 autoroute bypasses the town. In a loop of the rather meandering Lot river with its iconic fortified medieval bridge (Pont Valentré, celebrating its 700 anniversary this year) the town is an ideal size to retain its character - and of course it is at the heart of one of my favourite wine areas. The red Pont Valentre at CahorsCahors wine is made predominantly from Malbec (or Cot or Auxerrois as it is known locally) - and is a robust rich red ideal to accompany the rich duck and goose recipes of the region.Good wines from Clos Triguedina, Chateau de Cedre, Chateau Eugenie, Chateau les Hauts d’Aglan and others.

If you are really interested in the wines of Cahors and the culture of wine-making in rural South West France, then I can recommend Michael Sanders’ book Families of the Vinewhich tells the story of 3 major wine making families in the region at Clos Triguedena, Clos de Gamot and Clos la Coutale.

For more info on the Tour de France 2007 see www.letour.fr or UK Eurosport where there are some good interactive maps of the route.

Tour de France 2007 - Stage 17

July 26, 2007

JuranconAt last the mountains are now behind the riders (literally), and whislt this is not exactly a flat stage, there are now opoortunities for any of the surviving sprinters to show their stuff as the tour runs from Pau (64 Pyrenees-Atlantiques, Aquitaine) to Castelsarrasin (82 Tarn-et-Garonne, Midi-Pyrenees) on the Canal du Midi.

Pau is the centre of the Jurancon AC and Jurancon Sec AC vineyards - superb white wines ranging from dazzlingly crisp dry white through to sublime dessert wines made from local grape varieties such as Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng. A little to the west of the town of Jurancon, Domaine de Cinquau is well worth a visit - other to look out for include Domaine de Cauhapé where Henri Ramonteau produces some really exeptional wines - such as the Domaine de Cauhapé Symphonie de Novembre. Jurancon AC Moelleux stocked by Andrew Chapman at www.surf4wine.com “The very intense nose combines citrus fruit and exotic perfume with hints of fine oak, resin, spice and toasty notes. The mouth is suave and very aromatic. Fruity, crystallized flavours and bursts with pineapple, chestnut and quince. “

For more info on the Tour de France 2007 see www.letour.fr or UK Eurosport where there are some good interactive maps of the route.

Tour de France 2007 - Stage 15

July 23, 2007

Le Louron in the PyreneesThis is a punishing stage in the Pyrenees - from Foix (09 Ariege, Midi-Pyrenees) up to Loudenvielle-le Louron (65 Hautes-Pyrenees, Midi-Pyrenees), usually a small, quiet ski village surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks beside a shimmering blue lake (well on a good day!) - see www.lelouron.com/

For more info on the Tour de France 2007 see www.letour.fr or UK Eurosport where there are some good interactive maps of the route.

Tour de France 2007 - Stage 14

July 22, 2007

Mazamet (81 Tarn, Midi-Pyrenees) to Plateau la Beille (09 Ariege, Midi-Pyrenees) heading to a mountain finish in the Pyrenees. But first they have to cross the Black Mountains (Montagne Noir) and down on to the fabulous medieval city of Carcassone. In so doing they pass near or through the vineyards of Minervois AC (see Chateau Gibalaux-Bonnet) and Cabardes AC.Beyond Carcassonne the route heads through the vineyards of Limoux with its famous Blanquette before starting the serious ascent to the finish at 2000m (6000ft)!

(For more info on the Tour de France 2007 see www.letour.fr or UK Eurosport where there are some good interactive maps of the route.

Tour de France 2007 - Stage 13

July 21, 2007

The day for an individual time trial around Albi (81 Tarn,Midi-Pyrenees) - in many ways less exciting for spectators than a normal stage, but you do get to see everyone of the cyclists remaining in the tour on the 54km circular route.
Albi has a famous cathedral and Toulouse-Lautrec Museum, and is on the edge of the Gaillac AC vineyards - see Domaine de Labarthe

For more info on the Tour de France 2007 see www.letour.fr or UK Eurosport where there are some good interactive maps of the route.

Tour de France 2007 - Stage 12

July 20, 2007

Montpellier (34 Herault, Languedoc-Roussillon) through the Parc Naturel Regional du Haut Languedoc with its beautiful and dramatic scenery and on to Castres (81 Tarn, Midi-Pyrenees) - home of a very successful Rugby Union team and on one of the pilgrimage routes to St Jean de Compostelle in Spain.

For more info on the Tour de France 2007 see www.letour.fr or UK Eurosport where there are some good interactive maps of the route.

Cahors Blues Festival

July 17, 2007toJuly 21, 2007

Cahors blues festi07

The annual Cahors Blues Festival takes place 17–21 July 2007 in and around the town of Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees).

Whilst the streets of the town will echo to the music of the Blues, linked concerts are also held in surrounding towns such as Castelnau-Montratier, St Cirq la Popie etc

.

Cahors is also hosting the start of a stage of the Tour de France on 29 July 2007 (Cahors to Angouleme)

Hotel Chateau de Mercuès, Cahors

Hotel de Mercues Cahors
One of Cahors’ top wine chateaux is the Chateau de Mercuès, which is also a top class Michelin restaurant and hotel - the barrel-ageing cellar is under the hotel and is sometimes used for functions - such as a wedding breakfast of bread and Cahors wine!!
Owned by one of the top Cahors wine families - Georges Vigouroux, the wines are consistently amongst the best Cahors wines.
Situated on a promontory to the west of Cahors (46 Lot, Midi-Pyrenees) at Mercuès, it offers stunning views over the Lot Valley. see www.relaischateaux.com
More on Chateau de Mercuès and Cahors

Markets in Haute Garonne

Toulouse is the capital of the département of Haute Garonne (31) and of the Midi-Pyrenees region. The area has a rich food heritage - including the Toulouse Sausage! Duck, Goose and pork are the predominant meats, but the area is also good for fruit and vegetables.
The indoor Victor Hugo market in Toulouse (Place Victor Hugo), was where Rick Stein investigated and raved about the Toulouse Sausage of Jean Marie Castet at the stall of Gilles Vidal - open Tuesday - Sunday mornings - a huge selection of other wonderful foods always available.

The following list of markets is accurate to the best of our knowledge - many may only operate in the summer - always check with the local tourist office.
Arbas - Sunday
Aspet - Saturday
Aurignac - Tuesday
Auterive - Friday
Ayguesvives - Wednesday
Bagnères-de-Luchon - Wednesday
Balma - Saturday
Baziège - Saturday
Beauzelle - Wednesday
Bessières - Monday
Blagnac - Saturday
Boulogne-Sur-Gesse - Wednesday
Bruguières - Sunday
Cadours - Wednesday
Calmont - Tuesday
Caraman - Thursday
Carbonne - Thursday
Castelginest - Saturday
Castelmaurou - Thursday
Cazères - Saturday
Gaud - Tuesday
Cintegabelle - Wednesday
Colomiers - Saturday
Cornebarrieu - Sunday
Cugnaux - Saturday
Eaunes - Tuesday
Escalquens - Sunday
Fenouillet - Saturday
Fonsorbes - Saturday
Fridayonton - Thursday
Gratentour - Wednesday
Grenade - Saturday
Labarth-sur-Lèze - Sunday
Lanta - Wednesday
Launac - Friday
Léguevin - Sunday
L’Isle-en-Dodon - Saturday
L’Union - Sunday
Marignac - Friday
Martres-Tolosane - Tuesday
Mazères-Sur-Salat - Friday
Mirepoix-Sur-Tarn - Tuesday
Mondonville - Friday
Montastruc - Sunday
Montesquieu-Volvestre - Saturday
Montgiscard - Sunday
Montréjeau - Monday
Muret - Saturday
Nailloux - Wednesday
Pechbonnieu - Saturday
Pibrac - Monday
Pinsaguel - Sunday
Plaisance-du-Touch - Saturday
Portet-Sur-Garonne - Friday
Ramonville-St-Agne - Saturday
Revel - Saturday
Rieumes - Thursday
Roques-Sur-Garonne - Friday
Roquettes - Wednesday
Seysses - Friday
St-Béat - Friday
St-Cézert - Friday
St-Félix - Wednesday
St-Gaudens - Saturday
St-Geniès-Bellevue - Thursday
St-Jean - Saturday
St-Lys - Tuesday
St-Orens-de-Gameville - Saturday
St-Sulpice-sur-Lèze - Wednesday
Toulouse - Place du Capitol - Tuesday- Saturday (organic)
Toulouse - Victor Hugo - Tuesday - Saturday
Tournefeuille - Sunday
Vacquiers - Sunday
Venerque - Thursday
VilleFranche-de-Lauragais - Friday
Villemur-Sur-Tarn - Sunday
Villeneuve-Tolosane - Sunday

B&B on a canal barge near Toulouse

On the Canal du Midi there is a “peniche” (barge) offering B&B (or Chambres d’Hote). Peniche Soleiado is moored on the Canal at Ramonville-Saint-Agne - shaded by plane trees, breakfast (and supper) on deck and en-suite bedrooms.Situated just south of Toulouse (31 Haute Garonne, Midi-Pyrennes) this could be a novel place to stay - even the address sounds interestiing - Bridge of Eat Apples? (see map)
Peniche Soleiado, Pont-de-Mange Pomme. 31250 Ramonville-Saint-Agne T:06 86 27 83 19

Gardens in the Lot (46)

Cahors secret gardenWine from Cahors the first thing I tend to associate with the Lot département in South West France (Midi-Pyrenees), but is has so much more to offer and discover. For example there are numerous interesting gardens - and whilst they may lack the grandeur of gardens further north, they are arguably more interesting and diverse. For example:-
Medieval Garden (Jardin Médiéval) at Cardaillac north of Figeac
Garden of the Senses at Castelfranc in the rue des Jardiniers (Gardeners Road) - between Puy l’Eveque and Cahors on the northern bank of the Lot River - formerly an allotment now transformed into a peaceful haven of colour and scents
Labyrinth of Roses (Labyrinthe des Roses) at the Chateau de Saint-Dau in Figeac - over a 1000 climbing roses (50 varietals) constructed by an Australian to create a sort of rose maze
The Secret Gardens (Jardins Secret) in Cahors (see www.mairie-cahors.fr) a series of themed gardens and displays throughout the town.

Weekly Markets in Gers

Gers (32 Midi-Pyrenees) is a land rich in history (Three Musketeers), rolling countryside and home to Armagnac, Madiran, Côtes de St Mont and Côtes de Gascogne wines. It is predominantly quiet and rural with few major towns or through routes. Hence its weekly markets tend to be really good with lots of top quality local produce on sale - and a real atmosphere of deepest France. I can particularly recommend Nogara - where the Saturday market tends to take over the town, and Auch where the range of produce is impressive.

The information here is provided in good faith, but do bear in mind that some markets may not take place every week, and sometimes not at all outside the summer season. Its always best to check with the local tourist office - or with locals.

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Stay on a vineyard - Gascony

Gite at Domaine de Lauroux

In deepest Gascony, an English couple Karen and Nick Kitchener bought a vineyard producing Cotes de Gascogne wines and Armagnac at Domaine de Lauroux at Manciet (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees).

The domaine offers both gite and Bed and Breakfast accommodation surrounded by the vines.

For more info see http://www.lauroux.com

see map

Flying UK to France

Flybe planeThe number of budget airline routes to France from the UK is continuing to grow, as is the number of French destinations - no longer restricted to the major cities. This really does open up some of the less well-known parts of France.
The list below shows the extent of the coverage - and this excludes flights to Paris which are available from most local airports. Some flights are seasonal, so please check with the airline for timetables and availability.

Destination From airline
Angers Manchester Aer Arran
Angers Exeter flybe
Avignon Southampton flybe
Avignon Southampton flybe
Bergerac Belfast flybe
Bergerac Birmingham flybe
Bergerac Bristol flybe
Bergerac Exeter flybe
Bergerac Leeds/Bradford flybe
Bergerac Liverpool Ryanair
Bergerac London Stansted Ryanair
Bergerac London Gatwick flybe
Bergerac Manchester flybe
Bergerac Nottingham/E.Mids Ryanair
Bergerac Southampton flybe
Biarritz London Stansted Ryanair
Bordeaux Bristol easyJet
Bordeaux Bristol flybe
Bordeaux Southampton flybe
Bordeaux Birmingham bmibaby
Bordeaux Luton easyJet
Bordeaux Manchester bmibaby
Bordeaux Norwich flybe
Bordeaux Nottingham/E Mids bmibaby
Brest Birmingham flybe
Brest Exeter flybe
Brest Southampton flybe
Carcassonne London Stansted Ryanair
Carcassonne Nottingham/E Mids Ryanair
Chambery Bristol Excel
Chambery Leeds Jet2
Chambery Manchester Jet2
Chambery Southampton flybe
Chambery Birmingham flybe
Chambery Exeter flybe
Chambery Norwich flybe
Cherbourg Southampton flybe
Deauville London Stansted cancelled
Dinard London Stansted Ryanair
Dinard Nottingham/E Mids Ryanair
Geneva Liverpool easyJet
Geneva Doncaster/Sheffield easyJet
Geneva Bournemouth easyJet
Geneva Bristol easyJet
Geneva Edinburgh easyJet
Geneva Glasgow easyJet
Geneva London Stansted easyJet
Geneva London Gatwick easyJet
Geneva London Luton easyJet
Geneva Newcastle easyJet
Geneva Nottingham/E.Mids easyJet
Geneva Birmingham bmibaby
Geneva Cardiff bmibaby
Geneva Nottingham/E.Mids bmibaby
Geneva Manchester bmibaby
Grenoble Bristol easyJet
Grenoble East Midlands Ryanair
Grenoble Glasgow (Prestwick) Ryanair
Grenoble London Stansted Ryanair
Grenoble Liverpool Ryanair
Grenoble Heathrow BA
Grenoble London Luton easyJet
Grenoble London Gatwick easyJet
La Rochelle Birmingham flybe
La Rochelle Bristol easyJet
La Rochelle London Stansted Ryanair
La Rochelle Manchester flybe
La Rochelle Southampton flybe
le Havre Shoreham Euroexec
Le Touquet Lydd Lyddair
Le Touquet Shoreham Euroexec
Lille Leeds/Bradford bmi
Limoges Southampton flybe
Limoges London Stansted Ryanair
Limoges Liverpool Ryanair
Limoges Manchester flybe
Limoges Nottingham/E.Mids Ryanair
Lorient London Luton AerArran
Lyon Heathrow bmibaby
Lyon London Stansted easyJet
Lyon Bournemouth thomsonfly
Lyon Coventry thomsonfly
Lyon Manchester BA
Lyon Doncaster/Sheffield thomsonfly
Marseille Bristol easyJet
Marseille London Stansted Ryanair
Marseille London Gatwick easyJet
Montpellier London Stansted Ryanair
Nantes London Stansted Ryanair
Nantes London Gatwick Air France
Nantes Nottingham/E.Mids Ryanair
Nice Bristol easyJet
Nice Liverpool easyJet
Nice London Gatwick easyJet
Nice London Luton easyJet
Nice London Stansted easyJet
Nice Newcastle easyJet
Nice Birmingham bmibaby
Nice Birmingham BA
Nice London Heathrow bmibaby
Nice Nottingham/E.Mids bmibaby
Nice Leeds Jet2
Nice  Manchester Jet2
Nice  Southampton flybe
Nice Manchester BA
Nimes London Luton Ryanair
Nimes London Stansted Ryanair
Nimes Liverpool Ryanair
Nimes Nottingham/E.Mids Ryanair
Pau London Stansted Ryanair
Perpignan London Stansted Ryanair
Perpignan Birmingham flybe
Perpignan Southampton flybe
Poitiers London Stansted Ryanair
Reims London Luton Air Turquoise
Rennes Cardiff AirWales
Rennes Edinburgh flybe
Rennes Manchester AirWales
Rennes Waterford AirWales
Rennes Southampton flybe
Rodez London Stansted Ryanair
Rouen Shoreham Euroexec
Santander/Bilbao London Stansted Ryanair
St Etienne London Stansted Ryanair
Strasbourg London Gatwick Air France
Toulon London Stansted Ryanair
Toulouse Birmingham flybe
Toulouse Bristol flybe
Toulouse Bristol easyJet
Toulouse London Gatwick easyJet
Toulouse Manchester bmibaby
Tours London Stansted Ryanair

Cottages in the Gers

cottages at Peyloubere in GasconySelf-Catering Cottages and Bed & Breakfast Accommodation in a listed 17th Century domaine in Gascony - 35 acres, lakes, pool and Spa
Ideal location for visiting Madiran, Jurancon, Côtes de St Mont, Côtes de Gascogne, Armagnac, Floc de Gascogne vineyards.
Situated just 10 minutes drive south of Auch (32 Gers, Midi-Pyrenees - see map), Peyloubère is classified as a ‘Monument Historique’ by virtue of the fact that it was the home of the Italian painter, Mario Cavaglieri for over forty years. Legacies of his ownership are the frescoed ceilings in many of the rooms of the Manoir, the graceful Italian garden and the relaxed, bohemian atmosphere of the Domaine.
T: 00 33 562 05 74 97
F: 00 33 562 05 75 39
E:Martin@Peyloubere.com
Address: Domaine de Peyloubère, 32550, Pavie, Le Gers.
Website: www.peyloubere.com

Madiran, Chateau d’Aydie

Aydie in the Madiran region of SW FranceChateau d’Aydie and the Laplace family are widely regarded as one of the foremost quality producers of Madiran. Frédéric Laplace was recognised as one of the pioneer winemakers - first to bottle Madiran wines and to sell them under his own name when the appellation was created in 1948 - when there was just 50 hectares of vineyard under production, compared to the 1650 hectares which now produce Madiran wines.

The whole venture is very much a family affair - the three grandsons and granddaughter of Frédéric run the estate between them - Francois in charge of the business side; Jean-Luc is in charge of wine-making; Bernard manages the vines; and Marie presides over the office, whilst their father Pierre is in semi-retirement but still very much involved.

In his new book “The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides)” Andrew Jefford says of Chateau d’Aydie “Everything is impeccably clean, minutely organised, deeply considered, exhaustively refined…. a range of model Madirans”

It is always a sure sign of excellent wines when the top restaurants in the region include them on the wine list.
Madiran has been in the headlines recently due to a new book by Richard Corder “The Wine Diet“, which extolls the health-giving benefits of the Madiran wines from South West France.

We imported 2 superb Madirans from Chateau d’Aydie and a couple of excellent Vins de Pays. The key difference between the Madirans is the percentage of the Tannat grape used.
Chateau d'Aydie, Madiran wine bottle label The top cuvée is the Chateau d’Aydie - made from 100% Tannat grapes - a “grand vin” - greater power and energy with considerable fruit character (blackberries and blackcurrants), with hints of mushroom and tobacco. Aged in new oak for 12 months. (The 2001 vintage was recommended in the Guide Hachette des Vins 2003. “..intense and complex nose…fruit, menthol and woodsmoke..well balanced flavours mingled with vanilla and toast.“)
The next cuvée is Madiran AC Odé d’Aydie where the proportion of the Tannat grape is 80%. The Odé d’Aydie is made from top quality vines and aged partly in new oak barrels and partly in large oak vats. This produces a “sweeter” and richer wine than more basic Madirans, with suggestions of plums and tobacco. (Recommended in the Guide Hachette des Vins 2002. “”elegant in its deep, bright blackness, the Odé d’Aydie leaves in its trail intensely smoky aromas, fragrances of vanilla and menthol, notes of balsam…full-bodied, velvety and structured.”)
The Vins de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne carry the label “Aramis” indicative of their origin in 3 Musketeers country, and are excellent quality easy-drinking wines.
See map

Tasting Armagnac

Armagnac from Domaine de LaurouxArmagnac is a brandy from Gascony with similarities to Cognac which is made 100 miles to the north in the Charentes.

Armagnac pre-dates cognac by about 150 years but never seems to have been as commercially successful or available, tending to be appreciated more by restaurants, connoisseurs and the locals.There are 3 Aramgnac producing areas - Bas Armagnac, Tenareze and Haut Armagnac - of which Bas Armagnac produces the best brandies - “Bas” means low, but that refers to the altitude, not the quality.

Armagnac is made from distilled wine, four grapes are commonly used: Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Bacco, not dissimilar to Cognac’s grapes. But the distillation is quite different - the Armagnac “alambic” still is a continuous distillation process, which produces a higher and purer concentration of spirit than Cognac’ double distillation process.

Bottle labelling can be a bit confusing. 3 stars indicates a minimum of 2 years ageing; VSOP or Réserve, a minimum of 5 years; Napoléon, Vieille Réserve or XO, a minimum of 6 years; and Hors d’Age, which must be at least 10 years old.
A viintage Armagnac e.g.1967 must contain Armagnacs made in the named year, but it is actually the year of bottling which is more important, as maturation does not continue after bottling - it only matures in the wooden vat.

Tasting Armagnac (and Cognac) is a little different to the technique for tasting wine, essentially because the alcohol level is so high (40-43%). Small tapered glasses are better than the traditional brandy balloon. Contrary to common practice, warming the glass is not recommended for tasting, as this releases the alcohol rather than the flavour.

Ideally a “good” Armagnac should be wonderfully balanced between the fiery or even fierce impact of the alcohol and the delicacy of the fruit characteristics, overlaid with the oaky, woody tones from the maturation process. Too much tannin from the wooden vats will dry out the spirit, but get it right and you can find wonderfully nutty, woody characteristics.

The best Armagnacs will be smooth, rich and warming, with great persistence in the mouth. There is a world of difference between cheap Armagnac and the best vintage or well-aged versions.

Domaine de Lauroux in the Gers produces some excellent Armagnacs and is run by Karen and Nick Kitchener, an English couple.
For more info see www.lauroux.com

For more on Armagnac see www.armagnac.fr

Armagnac, Domaine de Lauroux